Migennes - Auxerre: Our First French Lock!

Successfully up our first French lock

In a slight state of shock, that we’d actually been lifted in, and excitement, that we were actually on our way cruising in France, we left Migennes behind and made our way to the first lock about 1km away.  We realised we’d need to get used to measuring distances in kilometres now, rather than constantly translating them into miles and it’s the same for the Euro, though it’s only just below like for like with the £ just now.  Through a couple of bridges and we could see the lock appear through the slight mist, gates open ready for us.  There was a HUGE weir to the side of the lock and I had to put quite a bit of power to dodge the current and get over the choppy section of water just before the lock – slightly scary, but not as bad as the Wash……

We pulled in and and got ourselves roped up and waited for the lock keeper, ecleusier, to appear.  And waited.  And waited.  There was no sign so Mike said I should go and find him, as I speak more French.  However, it was a bit of a climb up onto the side and there were no ladders and the boat was still covered in a substantial layer of frost making it very slippy, so Mike ended up climbing up and went to find him.  The first search proved fruitless, but a few minutes later the chap in blue (VNF uniform) appeared.  He spoke a little English, but Mike sent him along to speak to me in French and we managed a basic conversation.  He hadn’t seen or heard us come into the lock, something we will probably have to get used to as we are so tiny and so quiet compared to the normal river traffic.

Bye bye Migennes

Not too shabby a start

Frosty first lock - oh and our new chimneys!!

Big weir on the other side

The lock keeper passed us through and said he would see us at the next lock.  As we continued the mist became thicker and thicker and we soon found ourselves in reasonably thick fog.  We weren’t too concerned as we know there is no commercial traffic on this stretch of river and no one else was moving today, so I just kept the bank on my right in sight and followed it along.  When we could see the side, it was beautiful.  Wooded land with the trees sparkling with frost opening out into white, crispy fields and not a soul in sight nor sound – wonderful.  We were using our Breil guide (equivalent to Nicholsons) but because of the fog misjudged which side the next lock was on and found ourselves approaching the weir.  In time we saw the lock on the left and crossed over without too much turbulence.  The gates were closed and the light on red although we could see the lock keeper was there, so we pulled up towards the gates expecting them to open.  There was an electrical problem with the gates and the lock keeper couldn’t get them to open.  We pulled right back and moored up on the dolphin lock mooring, only just reaching each end with our new long ropes, and I got off and walked up to the lock.   Eventually one of the gates started to open, though they’re both meant to open together and the lockie asked if we’d be okay coming through just one. “Bien sur – nous sommes etoit!!!”  This lock had a sloping side to the left with short floating pontoons spaced along it, to which we tied up, our front rope on the end of the second pontoon and our back rope on the front of the first pontoon, as we were too long to tie to one pontoon entirely.  We were up and on our way, with the sun starting to break through the fog.

Does anyone know where we're going??......

After a slight delay, we're up our second lock on the pontoons

At the next lock the lock keeper spoke good English but wasn’t as chatty as the last chap.  He put us through the next two locks then said they all stopped for lunch now, it was 12.30, so we should stop as the next lock wouldn’t be ready to go through until after lunchtime.  Vive la France!!  I love that they treat the lunch hour with such dignity and respect, so civilised.  We said we’d be at the next lock at Monteneau at 2pm, so we could have a stop for a quick lunch at Gurgy.

Gurgy - I suspect these mooring are rammed in the summer months

Another sloping side lock with rising pontoons to attach to

I know this looks like the first lock without the frost, but it's not, trust me.

By now the sun was out properly and we were loving our cruise.  It felt great to be out on the move again and restore our peace of mind after the last few days.  At the next lock, the lockie didn’t speak at all, apart from a reluctant “Bonjour” and an acknowledgement when I said we’d see him at the next lock (in French!).  Quaintrelle was enjoying the width and depth of the river and at the seventh lock of the day it was apparent this lock keeper went to the same school of social graces as the last one.  Not even a bonjour and as Mike was trying to lasso the bollard, he just walked right passed and didn’t offer to loop it over for him.  Thankfully he did stop to help the poor little lady at the front who was also struggling with her lassoing and he grunted as she ‘Merci Beacoup’d.’

The last lock keeper of the day, passing us into Auxerre was more like the first, chatty, and also spoke English, though when I spoke some French he reverted to French, but nice and slowly so I could understand.  The sun was going down as we reached Auxerre and the temperature dropping so we were pleased to get to the port and moored up.  We had absolutely loved our cruise and it made the thought of being moored up for the next four months even harder now we’ve had a taste!!  The locks were fine, some a little feisty but the lock keepers advised us to stay as far back as possible, and with our new balloon fenders, Quaintrelle was in and out of them without the slightest bump.

Showing off our courtesy flag which you must fly.

Happy days at the tiller leaving the penultimate lock of the day

And into the last lock of the day taking us into Auxerre

After making ourselves known at the port office, we made our way to the supermarket to stock up on supplies.  We were about half way through our list, which had taken some time as we kept stopping to look at all the different things, then we couldn’t find things we wanted, when we both were overcome by tiredness, gave up, paid for what we had; wine, cheese, chocolate, crème brullee to name but a few and headed back to the boat.  After dinner we overdosed on Line of Duty, which we’d bought the box set of last week and headed to bed – residents of France!

Home in Auxerre for the next four months