Canal du Nivernais: Auxerre - Clamecy (Oooooo it feels good typing that!!!)

Not a bad spot for a lunch break

Realising I have a bit of a picture-fest on my hands following the first three days of cruising in France, I decided the blog needs done while we have a rest day in Clamecy.  Last entry we were ready to move but were waiting on a delivery of Tung Oil from Amazon which was due on Thursday 29^th March.  It arrived early (unheard of in France…) so I collected it on Wednesday and we decided we would leave Auxerre on Thursday.  This gave us enough time to visit Maison Roy for last cakes (2 x Saint Paul) and the new cheese shop which had just opened, which was just as well for our waistlines really.  It was cheesetastic in every way and we stocked up as much as we reasonably could.  Although we’ve now finished the Tonnerre, we are reminded of it every time we open the fridge door – I think there is another one in there trying to get out!

Thursday morning dawned bright and clear so we settled our bill; 201euros per month for mooring and 68euros for four months of electric hook-up – yes, that’s right 68euros – lecky is cheap as chips over here, topped up our water, bid farewell (a little tearfully) to our dear neighbours Chris and Liz (Hugo was dragged out for a farewell kiss as well), cast off and went on our way.

Bye bye Auxerre

At last - we are in the lock taking us up on to the Canal du Nivernais!

Time for lunch!

We had been to speak with the eclusier (lock keeper) on Tuesday and he advised us to phone 10 minutes before we left, just in case he was at another lock and would need time to get back and get the lock ready for us.  At this time of year one lock keeper will take you through three or four or more locks, driving along the towpath in their vans while you pootle along.  In the summer the VNF take on seasonal staff and there is someone on each lock, but it’s too quiet in the early season for that.  This kind of ties you in a way as you tell them each morning where you are going to and what time you want to start the next day, so it’s quite strange, having to report in, as it were.  We’re also stopped at midday everyday for an hour as this is the lunch hour on the Nivernais, but after that you can cruise until 7pm if you wish.  The lock keepers appreciate help with the locks but it is forbidden to operate them yourself.  The locks so far have been similar in size and depth and workings to the UK, but are painted in various colours along the way and the paddles work in the opposite direction.

Now, this paddle is actually closed and when it is opened the top bit goes down - very confusing!

Our first day was a short one taking us to the small town of Vincelles

Passing the small town of Vaux

This felt really weird, the canal runs up the side of a feisty River Yonne, separated by a concrete breakwater.

Cheeser happy to be on the move in the sun.

Our first night away from Auxerre, moored at Vincelles.  Not many other boats around!

Even the L'Yonne Republicaine is talking about Brexit!

Not a bad evening view from the kitchen window - Neil, a French upside down photo for you!!

The next day was slightly overcast but not unpleasant and the rain didn’t start until we reached our destination for the night, Chatel Censoir.  As we approached the lock a gentleman in the little house between the canal and railway line waved and smiled, as most people on the path had been doing during the day.  He then came and chatted with us as we went up the lock as he had never seen such a long boat!  He was American and lived in Chatel Censoir for three months of the year.  Shortly after we had moored up in the port and paid our six euros for the night and briefly discussed Brexit with the Capitain, there was a tentative, “Hello?” at the back door.  It was the American gent inviting us over to his house for a drink.  We accepted the invitation and so we went and met Stan and Karen and spent a lovely couple of hours exchanging experiences.  They were such an interesting couple; having spent many years owning and running vineyards in the US and have travelled extensively looking at vineyards all over the world.  They’ve spent a lot of time in Europe having owned property in Amsterdam before they bought this one in France 15 years ago.  We really enjoyed their company and would love to bump into them again at some point.

As in England, there is a lock-keeper's cottage at each lock.  On the Nivernais they all have signs with the lock's name on above the door.

Mike enjoying creating a bow wave on a river section

A Kilometre post showing 150 km to the Loire

One of our crew feeling very French, looking forward to the next cheese shop!

Lovely wee statue at the entrance to one of the locks.

Passing Mailly-le-Chateau - you may recognise this from TIm and Pru's cruise on the Nivernais!

Unusual cliffs

Perfect for rock-climbing

The little town of Saucoisse with its spectacular rocks

Our 6 euros a night mooring at Chatel Censoir

Just as we returned to the boat after drinks, the threatening clouds finally opened and we had heavy rain through the night which woke both of us up a few times.  In the morning we set off as promised at 9.30am and met the eclusier at the first lock.  The usual exchange was made; where are you going today, how long will you stop for lunch etc but it was all in English today as he spoke it really well.  It was still drizzling so he took a cup of tea with us at the second lock and said it was the best cup he’d ever had – Tetley.  Our lunch stop wasn’t quite as scenic as the first couple of days but we made do and then had our first swing bridge of the trip before the next lock.

Mike starts the bridge lifting

Quaintrelle and I head through

Mike lowers the bridge back down.  There wasn't a moving car in sight......

Coming under the bridge into Clamecy

Our mooring at the port in Clamecy

The lock at Clamecy

Swing bridge at Clamecy above the lock

Facing our direction of travel ready to set off in the morning

The french are excellent in terms of recycling provisions.  They even recycle disabled people apparently, though goodness knows how they get through that gap.......

The rain had been on and off all day so we were pleased to get moored up at Clamecy mid-afternoon.  Although we had been told there was a charge to moor here there was no one around and no signage and the office was closed, so we expected someone to pitch up at some point, but so far they haven’t.  We’ve not needed to hook up to electricity as our solar panels are doing a fantastic job of keeping the batteries topped up, even though it’s only early April.  This morning our State of Charge was 85.3%, and when we got back from an hour’s cycle ride, it was up at 90% - and it’s not even summer yet!

We decided to cycle down to Villiers-sur-Yonne, even though that’s where we’re boating to tomorrow and it was a lovely cycle.  The path is great and we came back diverting onto the road through some of the little villages which we won’t see from the boat.

As we had a break by one of the locks on today's ride, a wee cat came running out of the lock house and was the friendliest wee thing.

...and as with all cats, wanted in the bag!!  We were tempted to close her up in it and steal her back to the boat ;)