Spring Has Sprung on the Canal du Briare (Or, It’s Too Hot…………..)

Glass of trees anyone?......

I’m getting quite disciplined at doing my blog.  I’m not really.  Mike listens to the York City game on a Saturday afternoon (it’s like some form of self-flagellation……) so I use the time wisely whilst he is otherwise occupied.  We’re another week into our summer cruise and what a difference a week makes!  This time last week we were lighting the fire – today, for the fourth day in a row, all the windows are open, the doors are open, the parasol is up and the USB fan is plugged in.  The shorts are on, the suncream applied and I am more than perspiring sitting in the shade…….  Cruising on Quaintrelle is just the bees-knees when it’s like this and we’ve enjoyed pootering along through the beautiful French countryside under huge blue skies and smiling sun.  We were last in Beaulieu……..

Lovely light as the sun goes down at Beaulieu

On Sunday 15^th we unplugged the free power we’d had use of overnight and pushed off for a short lock-free cruise of 7km, just over an hour.  The Canal Lateral de la Loire is very pretty and peaceful with lots of bird-song accompanying you along the way.  We’re often also accompanied by views of the river Loire racing alongside us.  Our stop for the night was Chatillon-sur-Loire at the port there, so we put a wash on as we knew there’d be water there as you had to pay to stop.  The port was pretty full and the long stone quay recommended by the DBA mooring guide was taken up by a line of permanent live-aboards, so we headed towards the only gap in the pontoon moorings we could see.  It wasn’t ideal as we’re half a boat too long for the little pontoons, but we could make do.  However, when Mike went to have a look further on, on foot, he returned with the Capitaine who advised we’d be better on the quay further on next to her boat.  We paid up, and made to move, but on arrival next to her boat, were a foot too long for the space, so continued past a further three boats and tried to pull in.  It was a sloping wall so we couldn’t get on and off without a considerable leap, and there was more dog-shit on the grass verge than we were happy with, so we headed back to the pontoon.  We took a stroll into the town, and initially unimpressed, became quite charmed by some of the old buildings not to mention the best café eclairs we’ve had so far this year………

Back at the boat we had a spot of lunch and then got the Ninebot out.  It’s been a while and I was decidedly more wobbly than the last time I was on it, but we headed off towards the Loire to look at the old port and locks there, from when the boats used to come up off the Loire and load their cargo onto the barges which then took it up to Paris by canal.

The big Loire

The old lock from the Loire up to the canal

Above the lock is the old port

The next day dawned bright and clear and whilst Mike donned on his shorts, I acknowledged the chill hanging in the air and made gesture by rolling my jeans above my ankles for what was our shortest cruise to date of 4km.  We moored 4km out from Briare, whose claim to fame is its Pont du Canal (aqueduct), which at 660 metres long is the second longest aqueduct in Europe.  (The jury is still out as to whether although longer, it is as impressive as the Pontywhatsitsname in Wales, which is definitely more exciting to cross as it’s much higher and has an open sheer drop to one side.).  We walked into the town to explore, although with it being Monday, most shops and restaurants were closed.  We were astonished however, that despite it being a sizeable town, there wasn’t a decent supermarket in the town itself, just a little corner shop about the size of our living room (who bizzarely did stock jaffa cakes!), and that for more supplies we’d need to cycle 3km to the Super U on the outskirts.  By the time we had wandered around and walked back to the boat, the overcast sky was clearing and we sat out on the front of the boat enjoying the warmth, before heading in doors and lighting the fire at 7pm.

Low level aqueduct going into Briare

The lovely old port at Briare

The next day, even I had my shorts on, although I had to put my hoody on initially as I was a bit cold when we set off to cross the Pont du Canal to moor in Briare itself for a night.  Our shortest cruise ever of just 2km, we moored up at the commercial port (19 euros a night including power and water), and taking advantage of the facilities, put another wash on.  I should explain, our washing machine is in perfect perspective for our narrowboat in terms of size and can only take a maximum load of 3kg, so little and more often than I’d do in a house is the order of the day.

Quaintrelle heading on to the Pont du Canal

660m long

Sadly the posts at each end are being renovated and we didn't see them in all their glory with lamps and marble plaques

Think we might be heading here later if the sun stays out....

We then put the bikes together and cycled up the canal a few kilometres to suss out a stoppage that was taking place that day, to see whether it would indeed be lifted for the next day, or whether we’d be staying another night at Briare.  The canal was in water and the lock operating, and checking with a chap in the lockhouse, it looked like the stoppage was already off………  We were keen to move the next day, as the 19^th was a day of strike action and this time some VNF staff might be on strike and we didn’t want to be in Briare for that long.

From there we headed up to the Super U, packed as much as we could into our paniers and back pack and by the time we got back to the boat had clocked up 16kms!  To reward ourselves we headed to the Chocolatier on the canal side and enjoyed some refreshment.

Yummmmmmmmmm.............

The next morning, Wednesday 18^th, we filled with water and were off by 9.30am as we were doing quite a long day.  We’d been wondering how we’d let the lock keeper know we were there as it had been a few days since we’d done a lock so the usual round robin of phonecalls that the eclusiers perform to let each other know what boats are on their way and when had long fallen by the wayside.  All came clear as we approached, as a sign indicated a ‘Phone Point’ on the lock hut.  Sure enough the little orange box was there and I had a quick look-up and practice of what I wanted to say.  I did well, as I was met by a barrage of French that I understood about 10%, the bit, “Ce n’est pas possible…..”  Hmmm……  I said I didn’t understand very well, so he tried again, then eventually said, ‘Okay, no, it’s fine.  Come up the lock.’  As we rose up, he appeared in his van, obviously thinking it would be better explained in person with sign and mime (we’ll be brilliant at charades by the end of the season….), which it was and whilst this lock was working, the power to the next two (they were automated on this stretch) had gone down and they weren’t working.  EDF were on the case but the eclusier couldn’t say how long it would take.  He asked us to wait here and he’d ring the orange box when we could set off again.  So, not knowing if it would be one hour or four hours, we exited the lock and pulled into the side and made ourselves comfortable at the front of the boat in the sunshine.  We’d no sooner finished our coffee then our friend reappeared in his van – “C’est Bon!!!”  and we were off on our way again.  Lunchtime provided a second delay for an hour which we again made use of the front deck to soak up the sun and have some lunch and after that we made good progress until our third delay of the day, a boat coming up the other way we’d need to wait for.  It was only a short wait as our first hotel boat of the season climbed the lock and waddled past us – all shiny and new for the start of the season.  Shame half her paint will be on lock walls by the end of it…………

A lot of the locks on this section have old lift bridges which are no longer used.

Being on a short flight gave me the opportunity to walk between locks and meant I was able to take the rope from Mike in the locks as we were climbing upwards again for a short period.

And if there's no one to take your rope, it's a bit tricky and involves standing on the roof with the rope on the boat pole and trying to reach the bollards.

On leaving Briare the canal changes from the Canal Lateral de la Loire to the Canal du Briare.  The first summit canal in France, it was built to link the Rivers Loire and Seine.  As with many summit canals there are resevoirs or lakes at the top.

Happy days cruising in the sun

Our first hotel barge of the season

Despite the delays, we reached our destination of Rogny-les-Sept Ecluses just after 4.30pm and having read the instructions on the power/water stantions, made our way back through the town to the Locaboat (hire boats) base to pay the Capitain for the night.  The door was locked and the hours on the door stated that he had finished at 5pm.  It was two minutes past.  We continued our walk up to the Seven historical locks that give the town its name.  They are really impressive.  They were built in the 1600s and used until the 1800s when bigger boats no longer fitted into them and new locks were built to the Frejnet standard and the canal redirected.  They were left to go derelict but were renovated and made an Historic Monument latterly.  All along this stretch of canal there are old locks from the old route the canal used to take, it’s really interesting.  Having done a longish day, then walked and it being very hot, we decided to eat out rather than cook on the boat, so having discovered from the Tourist Information Office that two of the restaurants were closed, we headed to the third one only to discover it doesn’t do food in the evenings apart from Friday and Saturday.  We had a glass of wine and the lady took pity on our hungry eyes and gave us a bowl of nibbles, then we headed back and had some tapas.

Coming through Rogny with the ancient Sept Ecluses behind me

Rogny was really pretty with lots of little waterways and bridges through the town.

The Sept Ecluses.

Nice mooring at Rogny

Thursday was the day of the national strike, but we had checked with the lock-keeper yesterday and he said that in this region they would most likely be working, so after deciding that I couldn’t be bothered walking all the way back to the Locaboat base to pay for our one night (and we didn’t use the electric or water), I decided we were just going to do a runner.  I figured that if they were that bothered, they’d stay open later because most boats are not moored up by 5pm, or come round to collect your cash, or at the least, provide a phone number on the stantions so you could let them know you were there…… It was their loss, we tried, as far as I was concerned, but Mike insisted on winding me up the rest of the morning saying we’d not be allowed through the next lock until we went back and paid!

 

There are lots of old locks along the way marking the old route of the canal

Another stonking day on the weather front, we set off in our shorts for Chatillon-Coligny, a pleasant 2 and a bit hours cruise and we were pulling into the port, a lovely little tree-lined mooring that sits under the Tourist Office.  As I put away the cruising paraphernalia, Mike popped into the office to see what the charges were.  Not only was it free to moor, it provided water and electricity free of charge too!  Fantastic.  We fancied eating out again, but discovered that the restaurant we wanted to eat at (Le Coligny) wasn’t open in the evening as it was Thursday and they only open on Friday nights.  (It really is all about lunch in France!)  It being just after 12 we made a snap-decision to go for lunch instead, and after picking up a couple of leaflets and a town map, we headed off for lunch.  And quite delicious it was too, although food always tastes better sitting out on the terrace under a shade…….

As we let our lunch go down we looked at the information we’d picked up and realised there was an Auto Sport Museum, really a car museum for all intents and purpose, that was meant to be really good, but was only open at the weekend.  And there was a Super U within and easy cycling distance, and it was a great mooring and rather a nice little town.  We wanted to stay longer but had booked our next lock for the following morning and had no way to contact the eclusier to change our plans – so frustrating.

I suggested a walk up to the last lock to see if there was a number or Phone Point, then we could tell the lock-keeper of that lock we’d changed our plans and either get the number for the next lock or see if he’d call them.  There was indeed a number in the hut window but when I gathered the balls to ring it, it was the central office at Montargis which was now closed.  Back at the boat, Mike went into the Tourist Office and explained to the girl our situation and did she by any chance have a phone number.  Bizzarely she did!  She actually had the phone number for the eclusier for the next lock up, so I again prepared my speech and when I rang, she, “Oui”’d, appropriately at each sentence and by the end of the call we had re-scheduled to stay another night and meet her on Saturday afternoon at 2pm at the next lock.  Woohooooo!!!!!

The rest of the day was spent lounging out front on the boat while Mike caught up with some work – it’s a hard life!

Friday was set to be another roaster, but whilst Mike set about finishing off some work stuff, I got going with the laundry (well with free power and water it would be rude not to!) and stripped the bed.  Shortly after starting the wash, the power went off and the inverter roared and the battery state of charge started plummeting.  I switched the washing machine off and plugged into a different shore socket and started again.  Same thing……  I reported it to the Tourist Office and she came down and flicked up the fuses again which I’d managed to trip.  The next time I tried the machine it was fine, so we got two loads done which were dry in under an hour on the whirly gig.  Whilst that was doing, I swept and washed the floors and dusted.  That’s the drawback of having all the doors and windows open, everything blows in!

Once Mike was finished his work, we headed off on the bikes to the Super U and loaded up, including a bottle of Chablis.  Since tasting Sancerre which we love, we’ve been wondering how it would compare to Chablis, which we also love – how different are they?  So we decided that for Friday night’s entertainment we’d do a blind tasting of each, back to back, to see what we preferred and if we could tell which one was which.  Puchases made and loaded up like nomads, we cycled back to Quaintrelle and after lunch, Mike did some more work, and I headed into town armed with the map of interesting historical places and the camera.

Great wee mooring at Chatillon Coligny

The pretty chateau is only open to groups by appointment.

Remains of the old town wall with the start of the River Loing running in the foreground - that will be big enough for us to cruise on in the next few days!

Remember these car adverts in the 70s with the sexy bird sprawled across the bonnet??.... ;)

As the sun went over the yard arm, I got four wine glasses, placed red dots on the bottom of two and green dots on the bottom of two (colour-side down so we could just see the white backing when holding the glasses).  I put Chablis in the green dots and Sancerre in the red and then handed Mike one of each.  I then shut my eyes and swivelled mine around several times so I didn’t know which was which.

Mike actually sniffed out the Sancerre straight away – I was really impressed.  I thought I sniffed the Sancerre but it turned out to be the Chablis, but when I tasted it I could tell it was the Chablis.  We both preferred the Chablis so drank the rest with our evening meal and left the Sancerre for tonight (much to Mike’s disappointment – you should have seen his wee face light up when I opened two bottles…).  However, we think we should have a re-taste as the Chablis was a Premier Cru, so we’ve bought a bottle of normal Chablis to do the test again.  (We’re still only having one bottle though!!).

Saturday, today, it’s boiling again; shorts, parasol, sunscreen, need I say more?  We were up quite sharp, bacon-buttied and off on the bikes by the back of 10 and headed for the Auto Museum.  We weren’t expecting much, and both wow-ed as we walked in having paid 5 euros each for the pleasure.  The chap had a fantastic selection of cars all grouped by country ranging from minis and fiat 500s to Jaguars and Daimlers and everything inbetween.  The sad thing is, the British section was by far the best and had the most impressive cars and yet it’s the country that has lost it’s car industry.  It didn’t take long to get round but was most enjoyable and as we left we realised we were just a few minutes from the Super U.  So we headed there and got a bottle of Chablis and some charcoal to have a barbeque – it’s really too hot for the Heritage stove.

So many fantastic cars - this is just one side of the British section.

I have always wanted one of these - Scimitar - lovely car.

Much cuter than the current version of the Fiat 500

Back at the boat, we topped up water, unplugged and headed away from our little idyll – what a great couple of days.  We were early at the next lock, but so was the eclusier (who obviously hasn't seen a narrowboat coming into the lock on one gate and videoed us to show her friends later!) and we were through both locks and at our next destination by 2.30pm.  After a walk around Montbouy, home for the next two nights, we had some lunch and Mike settled down to take his punishment (York City Game).

Four years on I still get a buzz as the doors of the lock open on a new world......

The pretty church at Montbouy

Another old lock at Montbouy meant Mike can now claim he has stood in the bottom of a lock AND in a sluice!

We’re currently a couple of days ahead of schedule which is great as a)we can take our time and chill out in pretty villages and b)they might have fixed the weir on the Seine that a barge went into that has closed the river, by the time we’re on it next week!