Aigues Mortes to Marseillan (or, Wooohoooo!!!! Beach time!!!)

A favourite mooring at Maguelone

After the last epistle of an entry, someone (who shall remain nameless, John Suddes), remarked they’d prefer shorter and more frequent entries.  Well, to be honest, so would I….. it takes ages to catch up when I fall behind and yet here we are again, only getting round to writing up from the 12-22 August when it’s actually 9^th September…..  Thank blogspot for allowing date manipulation is all I can say!  So, sorry John, it’s a bit of an epistle again, but by the time I reach you and the family’s visit (minus the teenagers…) you’ll have had three mentions, so I hope that makes up for it.

We’d had a long day, fallen out and were still asleep when the capitaine knocked at the front of the boat looking for his money.  He’d been long gone when we arrived the previous evening and clearly didn’t want us to do a runner without paying for our night.  We were staying three nights which came to a princely sum of 111 euros – yes, that’s right 111 – our second most expensive mooring only to Paris.  And he didn’t take cards – cash or cheque only.  And he was finishing in 50 minutes and wanted us paid up before he left at 10am.  So leaving Mike in bed (we were still not speaking), I got dressed, went into town where the first cashpoint was closed, found a second, got our money and headed back to his office and handed it over.  He became a bit more friendly once paid and said if we wanted to stay longer just give him a call as the space we were in was available for longer, and gave me some information on getting to the beach and about the town.  I then headed back into town for some croissants for breakfast.

We headed out late morning into the town which is like Las Vegas in terms of it’s the biggest town for a while in the region and the tourists flock to it.  It is very pretty and after a walk around, we decided to walk the ramparts/city walls, before catching the train to Grau de Roy and the beach on the 1 euro train.

Sunset view of the Aigues Mortes dungeon from the boat.

Couldn't decide if I loved our little neighbours or was completely freaked out by them - they came to gulp each night!

View from the tower of the port at Aigues Mortes for the passenger boats.

The salt lakes just outside the town are pink, as if there is blood in them....... hence the Camargue salt in the shops is pinkish.

Rooftops from the ramparts.

After exploring the town we took the 1 euro train down to Grau de Roy.

At Grau du Roy the arm of the canal reaches the Med - not going to be bringing Quaintrelle down here......

We both loved this sculpture on the front celebrating the women of the Carmargue

Although a bit overcast, it was warm and the beach was packed - all we needed were 'Kiss Me Quick' hats to appear!

Relaxing in the warm med we began to thaw to one another, but things were still a bit tense as we grabbed a burger for lunch, swam again and headed for the train home.  However, by the time we’d had a lovely meal at Bistrot Palou we were friends again, which was good cos I miss him when we’re not speaking……

After a well-deserved lie-in and an overnight storm, the next morning was spent putting the Heritage Stove back together, after swabbing out the water and letting it dry following the storm at Avignon rendering it useless with rain getting in the air inlet duct.  Some admin followed, then a walk round the town with a top-up shop at the butchers and small supermarket before settling down to watch The Lobster – a film we felt rather lost itself as it went on and no one (disappointingly) turned into a lobster.

We left fairly sharp the next morning and around an hour into our travels plucked a juvenile bee eater out of the canal, very wet and we weren’t convinced it would survive.  But survive it did and four and a half hours later after we’d moored at Maguelone, he attempted to fly off but landed in the canal again.  A second rescue was mounted and this time his recovery was much quicker, so an hour later, I put an agitated little Orville in the biscuit tin, crossed the bridge and took him to the edge of some vineyards where he was released and promptly landed in a nearby tree.  The day had been really windy and I suspect that was what had caught him out and landed him in the cut to start with, and as it was still windy we weren’t too surprised to see him still sitting there an hour later.  Thankfully the winds dropped and as we made our way to take the little train to the nearby beach for the day, there was no sign of him.

The Canal du Rhon a Sete is cut through the salt lakes which means you have vast expanses of salt water around you.

Flamingoes live in the etangs (salt water lakes)

Being near the Med means there are seabirds swooping around too.

Orville, freshly plucked from the cut.

A bit drier a few hours later.....

Almost ready to leave us :)

Our mooring at Maguelone

From our mooring you crossed a bridge across the canal to take the train to the beach 2km away.

The beach train.

After a day on the nudist section of the beach, or rather, the section where you can choose to wear something or not, as opposed to the section where you MUST wear something, we headed back and picked a message up on FB from one Beccy Suddes.  No one I knew so I asked Mike and it was an old colleague of his’ wife.  John and Beccy were camping with their family just 5km away, so took the opportunity to pop over for a couple of hours and have a look at the boat.  The two youngest, Philip and Zoey (hope I’ve got that name right!) asked some excellent questions – we were most impressed!  After they headed off, sent packing by a sudden onslaught of mosquitoes, we covered ourselves in insect repellent and walked across the carpark to the little food and wine festival that was taking place; a showcase of local foods, wine with some live music – when the musicians weren’t being eaten alive by mossies!!

Next morning a quick trip into the village by bike to post a letter and get some cash and then we headed for a last day at this part of the beach, to bare all, as our mooring was limited to three days.

It was a great little mooring and we were sorry to leave, but leave we did and shuffled onwards along the Canal du Rhon a Sete another few kilometres to the small hameau (hamlet) of Les Aresquieres, where rumour had it there was a shiny new 80m pontoon.  And there was!!  And because it wasn’t in the books yet it was empty!  We took our position and after a 5 minute walk got naked again on the beach trying desperately to toast the white bits!  The sea was amazing – cooler than expected but incredibly clear and not a bit of plastic or rubbish in site.  It was truly spotless – well done the French!  We decided to eat out and headed off on a 20 minute walk to the nearest restaurant.  After 35 minutes and the blue dot going bananas on google maps, we arrived at a campsite, which had a restaurant but was closed!  We tried to hitch back for a few minutes but no one stopped so we walked back.  Thankfully it was a nice evening and we had wine and snacks to keep us going.

The new quay by night, looking towards the lights of Sete.

From the bridge crossing the canal at Les Aresquieres - can you see us? We're on the left, just before the bend at the top of the canal.  Fishermen's houses line the canal.

The Med, just a short walk from the mooring :)

Toasting our white bits!!

Looking back the other way at night.

The following day we cycled an easy 3km to the beach at Frontignan for lunch, where there was a little Blackpool-esque strip with beach shops and restaurants.  I plumped for moules frites and very delicious it was as well and Mike polished off a burger before we eventually topped up at the little supermarket, headed back to the boat and then enjoyed the rest of the day on the beach again.  We were absolutely loving our time on this canal; the superb scenery, the wonderful beaches and the guaranteed blue skies and sunshine each day – bliss!

On Sunday 19^th, we reversed our day and headed to the beach for a last morning before heading into Frontignan itself in the afternoon.  Now, there is a lift-bridge in Frontignan that only lifts twice a day – or so we thought, so we’d timed our arrival to make the 4pm lifting.  However, the previous evening, a stream of boats had passed us just after 8pm and I had suggested that it looked like the bridge was opening in the evening.

4pm came and one of the hire boats was right off his marks and up at the bridge, but nothing happened.  On further investigation we discovered that it opens three times a day in August; 8.30am, 1.30pm and 7pm…….  We whiled away the time at a local wine cave whilst boats arrived at both sides of the bridge for the 7pm lifting.  We were worried (as usual) about getting a mooring as we were really low on water and there was water in the port but if there was no space…?  We didn’t need to worry, as a walk around the port enlightened us to the presence of Anne and Steve and Hector the Bassett Hound on Sa Marche – who we’d met last year towards the end of the season.  Steve kindly invited us to pull alongside to get water if all the spaces were taken, so we knew we’d be okay.

  

So, 7pm arrived and we thought that there might be a light system or something to control the boats going through from each side, but no, it was a huge free-for-all, including the large commercial who, for once, was not given priority and had to fight his way through with the other 20 or so of us.  It was really hilarious but we got through and got a space on the quay, so we were finally able to settle down for night.

Jousting boats is apparently a popular sport in this area and these two were moored opposite us as we waited for the bridge.

Chaos ensues as everyone makes a dash for it as soon as the bridge is up!

And then safely moored up on the other side.

For the last few days, weeks even, Mike had again been watching the wind and weather like a hawk, as the time to cross the Etang du Thau was drawing close.  Today, 20^th Aug, was the day and with a  blazing sun in the sky, we happily left Frontignan and continued our journey West.  We had phoned the harbour master at the port of Marseillan town to make sure conditions were good, but also to book a mooring there.  The ports around the Etang (big salt-water lake) are notoriously expensive and many people are just keen to get across the etang safely and back onto the canal.  However, conditions were good for the next few days and having spoken with Nicki and Gorette who stayed on the Etang at Meze and loved the experience, we had decided to stay a night or two.

Quaintrelle was a bit reticent as she thought we were heading towards the Wash again, but it couldn’t have been more different!

There are a lot of boats as you get nearer the Etang.

Dry storage for the light weights :)

"Please don't make me go out to sea!!!!!!!"

Perfect conditions.

Oyster fishing is the main thing on the Etang and there are miles and miles of nets.

Much more relaxed than on the Wash.

The day was glorious and the conditions near perfect with only the wash from the odd speed-boat rocking us a bit more than usual.  A few short hours later we pulled into the port at Marseillan and almost immediately fell in love with the place – it was like a little Greek port on the Med, full of charm and smiling people.  The capitaine came out and waved us to a space and once moored up we headed over to see what the cost would be.  The husband and wife team were just delightful and immediately said, “You’re about 15 metres aren’t you?” and put us in a lower bracket than we should have been, however, it was still 56 euros a night.  We were so taken with the place though that we decided it was worth it and booked two nights.  Again, and surprisingly, they didn’t take cards, so we’d need to come back with cash.  They weren’t in a rush for it and said either later today or tomorrow was fine – so laid back!

Coming into port at Marseillan.

Pay for two nights - get one free? Don't mind if we do....... :)

We had a wander back through the port and just off to the left stumbled across Noilly Prat – the place where they make the famous vermouth.  We went in to book a tour and ended up in their new bar area having a cocktail – this place just got better and better!!!

Another fave!!

I can't remember the name but it had basil in it and was delicious!

On the way to dinner we went to pay our fees and were totally gobsmacked and delighted when Madame Capitaine pointed out on our receipt that she had marked it that we had paid for two nights but were offered a third night free!!   She said it in French so I assumed I’d misunderstood and got her to repeat it in English and it was right enough!  We didn’t need a second invitation!  She further explained that sometimes they do this for private boats as they know the fees are expensive.

Dinner at the Chateau du Port was the icing on the cake of an amazing day!  We were squeezed in as they were short-staffed, not that you’d have noticed, there was no delay in the service at all and Mike had one of the best steaks ever and I tucked into a fantastic platter of beautifully cooked seafood.  We enjoyed it so much that we made a booking as we left to come back for our last night!

The Chateau du Port restaurant - mmmmmmhhhhmmmmm

The next day we had a tour of Noilly Prat at 3pm – it’s at that time everyday in English, no booking required, so we decided to hang around the town and explore the very large market in the morning.  We didn’t buy anything at the market but I spotted a rather lovely plump, soft stuffed sheep in a little interiors shop and was so taken with its cock-eyes that I had to go back for it……

In these barrells is made the juice that is added to the wine to make it vermouth.

The wine is kept outside and cooled by sprinklers allowing the wine to take on the taste of the sun and salt air...... apparently.......

This is what happens if you drink too much Noilly Prat.  You become one :D

Energised by our vermouth tasting and cocktail, once back at the boat, Mike researched a wine cave that his friend Jim, of Sandringham St Beer Shop fame, had visited earlier this year and highly recommended.  It was a cycle away, so off we went, only got a bit lost and arrived with 25 minutes to spare before they closed.  It was the local cooperative so we were able to taste a variety of wines made by local growers, and of course the local Picpul de Pinet.  This is quite dry and we like a fruity wine so we preferred one of the chardonnays but bought half a dozen mixed bottles of the two.

The bikes were in action again the next day as we packed up and headed for a 5km cycle to the beach.  It turned out to be just over 6kms and the sandy beach was packed with families all enjoying their summer holiday – how we yearned for our peaceful nudist beaches back up the coast.  However, it was the beach, the sand was hot, the sea was cool and it was lovely.  Keeping an eye on some thundery clouds over head we spent a pleasant few hours before heading back in time for our second dinner at Chateau du Port.  This time we had the Chateaubriand for the two of us and it was absolutely amazing.  The restaurant is run by a Belgian couple and whilst they use local produce for everything else, admitted they bring their beef in from Belgium as they don’t think the French beef is as good.  We love both!!!  We couldn’t believe how quickly our three nights had passed here and didn’t want to leave.  It is one of our favourite moorings ever and we can’t wait to come back and visit again, although it probably won’t be in Quaintrelle!

 

More jousting boats at Marseillan

But another excitement awaited us in the morning as we would be going on to the world famous Canal du Midi!!