Marseillan to Colombieres (and a week’s holiday in our house!)

Heading out onto the Etang de Thau from Marseillan

We really were genuinely sad to leave Marseillan, but also a bit excited as not only were we now going onto the Canal du Midi, but in a couple of days we would leave Quaintrelle at Beziers and hire a car to go and stay at the house for a week.  Having heard of all the holiday-makers enjoying our pool, we decided that we wanted a shot of it ourselves and we’d invited Simon, an architect friend, to come over and give his thoughts on what changes we wanted to make.  Peter and Jane would also join us for a few days so we’d need to stock up on wine……..

We were only back on the Etang du Thau for 20 minutes or so before we took the cutting on to the Canal du Midi.

Coming off the Etang and onto the canal.

Swampy boats ahoh!!

Here we are!

The first part of the Canal du Midi really isn’t that attractive.  There are a lot of what we call swampy boats there; neglected almost beyond recognition and often piled high with the rubbish that people seem to think you require to exist.  It makes for a rather shabby welcome experience, which is a shame.  We arrived at the round lock at Agde just before lunch.  It’s a most unusual lock as it is round and has three sets of gates; two for going up and down on the midi and a third that takes you down into Agde and on to the Med.  We would not be taking that third gate……  There was a boat waiting when we arrived so we pulled in and Mike went up for a look and came back to report that there were three hire boats coming down and the last one in was spinning around and having trouble mooring up.  They must have got lines on however, and 15 minutes or so later the first two boats exited and the third began to spin around the lock again……  It took a further 20 minutes for this boat to get out of the lock.  He kept oversteering, overcorrecting and was literally going around in circles for 20 minutes – while we all waited.  By the time he passed us, head down, not making eye-contact with anyone, the lock closed its gates on us for lunch!

You spin me right round baby right round, like a record baby, right round, round round....... :D The boat in the left hand corner has its nose towards a gate to the canal.  The gate in the top left is the one to Agde and the Med.  The gate to the right is the other one to the canal du midi.  The spinning boat has come in from the Midi gate to the right and wants to go out of the one in bottom left-hand corner......

We made use of the time by washing Quaintrelle.  Having been in salt water for the last couple of weeks, we were keen to get it washed off before it started to cause rust so while everyone else enjoyed a break in the midday sun, we broke sweat washing her down.

The delay meant we were a bit later mooring up above the lock at Portiragnes, after a failed attempt to moor below the lock where the wall had eroded and crumbled in and we found ourselves on a tilt too far out from the bank to get on and off!  We quickly assembled the bikes and packed our swimming stuff and set off on what turned out to be a 12km round trip for one last exposure on the beach. 

Friday 24^th was slightly cooler than it had been, at a balmy 30 degrees and we set off for Beziers just after 9am.  The characteristic plane trees of the Midi are missing in huge chunks as many have been destroyed by a pest brought over in the wood of ammunition boxes from the US in WWII.  When you get a stretch of them, they are really beautiful and when you get a bald patch it’s very sad.  However, there is a massive replanting programme taking place and there were long stretches where there were young saplings biding their time until they will provide shade along the cut like their predecessors.

You can clearly see that the English canals were based on the Canal du Midi - same sort of bridge holes - feels like home!

The first part of the Midi is also still relatively close to the Med so there are more Blackpool-esque resorts along the way.

But this is what we want to see - the beautiful majestic plane trees of the Midi.

We reached the port at Bezier just after 12 to find a space reserved for us alongside Hyersynth Bookay, who is for sale at a whopping 300,000 euros if anyone is interested…….  We settled our bill of 152 euros for 9 nights with no water or electric after lunch and headed up into town for an explore.  It’s a really pretty town.

One of the main avenues in Bezier had had a flower fair and we just caught the last of the stalls.

Bezier, like Lyon, is also trialling a driverless vehicle up and down the avenue.  We took it both ways, but this one had a lady to push the button to set it off, so it still has some way to go.

I loved this statue/fountain in the park in the city.

Back at the boat, we packed including some bits and pieces that we were taking back to the house to store in the garage until we go back for good and started to clear the fridge ready to empty in the morning before we left.

It was a bit of a fiasco picking up the car the next day as we’d booked it from 10.30am, but were now picking up Simon at Bergerac airport on our way back so wanted to leave earlier.  Mike had tried to change it the night before but couldn’t get into the online account he’d used to book it, but we figured it would be okay to collect an hour or so earlier.  It turns out it wasn’t.  Apparently there have been problems with people being caught speeding, but then saying they didn’t have the car at the time of the offence and produced the paperwork to prove their pick-up time was later than the time the offence occurred………  She allowed us to do all the paperwork so when we returned at 10.30am, we just had to check the car and drive off, and while I did that with her Mike was on the phone……  The thing is, you book online through a third party, you get a good price, often more than half the price of going direct to Hertz, Enterprise or whoever.   But you then can’t make changes because the person you booked it through won’t call the actual hire company to change the booking.  Mike did reach a point after about 20 minutes and the first customer service agent had hung up on him, where they said they’d change it for a fee……  You can imagine how well that went down.

I returned to collect the car at 10.15am and was left waiting until 10.20am and then allowed to drive away at 10.23am, but only after she’d scribbled out 10.30am on the paperwork and written 10.20……

The car was loaded up and we were off!  Our high spirits didn’t last long though as we hit traffic and realised it was the last Saturday in August and all of France were heading back home from their holiday in the south.  It took an hour and a half to do a stretch that should have taken 40 minutes!

5 hours later and we picked a very relaxed Simon up from Bergerac, having made use of his time there and had a lovely lunch ‘gastronomique’ in town. Reaching the house we unloaded the car and then despite the overcast sky and temperature of 18 degrees, got into our swimming stuff and jumped in the pool.  It wasn’t that warm, but it’s OUR POOL and we loved it!

The next day the sun was up and the clouds had vanished so the pool would definitely be in use, but first we had a ‘meeting’ with Simon to talk about the house.  Simon had been having a good wander around and now wanted to see if his ideas matched up with ours.  All exciting stuff!!  Simon and Mike carried on measuring up and discussing options while I drove to Bergerac to collect Peter and Jane.  By the time we got back to the house, Mike had most of the inflatables blown up and plenty of champagne and wine chilling in the fridge and he and Simon were about to start relaxing.  What else was there to do but join them.

Me and Pete enjoying our pool with a view.

There were lots of butterflies in the garden and Mike caught a snap of this Scarce Swallowtail - very beautiful.

Enjoying some of our Philippe Benard pink fizz!

In the summer months lots of the towns hold weekly night markets with food and drink stalls and live music.  We attended the one in Duras on the Thursday night - it was heaving!

Meanwhile peace and tranquility remain back at La Ganne.

We barbequed on our gas barbeque that evening and sat out late into the night – probably to the annoyance of our neighbours……  On Monday morning Simon had one last look around the house, a last chat with us and he and I were then on our way to Bergerac airport for his afternoon flight.

The rest of the week kind of followed a similar pattern, breakfast, pool, lunch, walk, pool, drink, sleep……..  Although on Wednesday, or was it Tuesday, we drove to Eymet and had a lovely lunch at Andine, the peruvian restaurant there.  On Thursday we took Peter and Jane to the airport and then Mike and I met with our financial advisor to sort out what we need to do taxwise in both the UK and France and then on our way home we stopped in at a VW garage to test-drive a couple of cars; T-Roc and Tiguan.  With the time for moving into the house growing nearer we needed to get the wheels in motion for buying a car and we had a shortlist of ones we fancied trying out.  We were greeted in the VW showroom by an English car salesman who was really helpful and let us try the cars, but on further investigation it turned out that he didn’t have anything suitable in stock for us and the new ones (which were too expensive anyway) wouldn’t come until next April now!

The next day we bit the bullet and drove to Bordeaux, yet again in awful traffic on the peripheral ringroad making the journey half an hour longer than it should have been.  Our target today was the Audi dealer to try the Q2 and Q3.  We loved both these cars but the Q3 was really out of our budget, even for an ex-demo, but there was a Q2 that would suit but it was at another dealer.  There was a second hand Q3 across the forecourt but we just weren’t sure……..  The next day the chap called to say the Q2 we’d fancied had been sold so we’d need to think again…….

Saturday we packed up and headed back to Bezier with a much smoother journey this time and very pleased to get back and see that Quaintrelle’s batteries were sitting at 100% - from the solar!  It made us realise just how much power our fridge uses!  We had a kebab later in the evening and Mike started looking online for a car through a site called Aramis Autos which our friend Kevin, from DB Kendra Erin, had suggested. This would enable us to get a good car at a better price and quicker than through a dealer and we really needed a car in the next 3-4 weeks.  We got quotes through and had a good look, translating as much as possible as it was all in French.  It looked good.  The Q2 and Q3 were still too expensive, so we decided on the Tiguan and so began what would be a week of total car stress trying to get insurance, bank transfers etc sorted out………

Sunday 2^nd dawned bright and sunny again and we were keen to get moving again so headed off after breakfast up the first lock out of Bezier.

There is a fantastic view of the cathedral at Beziers as you leave via the aqueduct.

The inclined plane taken out of use in 1968.

In a remarkable U-turn on modernisation of the canal, there was an inclined plane that was used instead of the flight of 7 locks up until 1968.  Proving problematic, the plane was closed and the locks reopened and it’s the locks that are used today.  It was quite a hair-raising climb and we have never seen staircase locks operated in this way.  You pull into the chamber whilst the upper gates are still open and water is let through from the chamber above.  So in chamber 1, the water is let in from chamber 3 and fills both chamber 2 and 1 – the gates between 2 and 1 being open.  You move into chamber 2 and the gates are closed behind you and you’re taken up to chamber 3 and so on.  This method meant that rolling waves of water passed through the chamber above you before reaching the chamber you were in which meant it was a torrent by the time it reached you.  We didn’t exactly enjoy it and found the whole experience quite traumatic.

One of the calmer locks..............

Lovely view back down the flight though.

At the top we pulled in for a break and went for a look at the flight and the visitor centre there.  It’s really pretty and very interesting and we paid 3 euros to see an excellent 3d film of how the Canal du Midi was made, all in English for us!

Enjoying the 3d film experience...... (my best acting - it hasn't started yet - I'm good..eh?)

The film was so well done - well worth the 3 euros!

We then continued along to our mooring for the night at Colombieres, a pretty little village and got a space before the rest of the bumper boats arrived – it was fun watching them trying to get through the tiny bridge hole.  Sadly despite now being in September there are still a lot of hire boats around and the worst thing about them is the speed.  Mike spent most of the rest of Sunday shouting out the window at them to slow down as their wash lapped up over the sides of the canal and we were buffeted about – they have no idea………  After a wander through the town we headed off up the towpath to the Oppidium, discovered when the marshes were drained, and watched a couple of boats go through the tunnel de Malpas, then it was back to the boat for a barbeque and bed.

The Opidium - it must look even more impressive from the air.

A tranquil mooring at Colombieres - once the bumper boats have gone to bed...... ;)

Aigues Mortes to Marseillan (or, Wooohoooo!!!! Beach time!!!)

A favourite mooring at Maguelone

After the last epistle of an entry, someone (who shall remain nameless, John Suddes), remarked they’d prefer shorter and more frequent entries.  Well, to be honest, so would I….. it takes ages to catch up when I fall behind and yet here we are again, only getting round to writing up from the 12-22 August when it’s actually 9^th September…..  Thank blogspot for allowing date manipulation is all I can say!  So, sorry John, it’s a bit of an epistle again, but by the time I reach you and the family’s visit (minus the teenagers…) you’ll have had three mentions, so I hope that makes up for it.

We’d had a long day, fallen out and were still asleep when the capitaine knocked at the front of the boat looking for his money.  He’d been long gone when we arrived the previous evening and clearly didn’t want us to do a runner without paying for our night.  We were staying three nights which came to a princely sum of 111 euros – yes, that’s right 111 – our second most expensive mooring only to Paris.  And he didn’t take cards – cash or cheque only.  And he was finishing in 50 minutes and wanted us paid up before he left at 10am.  So leaving Mike in bed (we were still not speaking), I got dressed, went into town where the first cashpoint was closed, found a second, got our money and headed back to his office and handed it over.  He became a bit more friendly once paid and said if we wanted to stay longer just give him a call as the space we were in was available for longer, and gave me some information on getting to the beach and about the town.  I then headed back into town for some croissants for breakfast.

We headed out late morning into the town which is like Las Vegas in terms of it’s the biggest town for a while in the region and the tourists flock to it.  It is very pretty and after a walk around, we decided to walk the ramparts/city walls, before catching the train to Grau de Roy and the beach on the 1 euro train.

Sunset view of the Aigues Mortes dungeon from the boat.

Couldn't decide if I loved our little neighbours or was completely freaked out by them - they came to gulp each night!

View from the tower of the port at Aigues Mortes for the passenger boats.

The salt lakes just outside the town are pink, as if there is blood in them....... hence the Camargue salt in the shops is pinkish.

Rooftops from the ramparts.

After exploring the town we took the 1 euro train down to Grau de Roy.

At Grau du Roy the arm of the canal reaches the Med - not going to be bringing Quaintrelle down here......

We both loved this sculpture on the front celebrating the women of the Carmargue

Although a bit overcast, it was warm and the beach was packed - all we needed were 'Kiss Me Quick' hats to appear!

Relaxing in the warm med we began to thaw to one another, but things were still a bit tense as we grabbed a burger for lunch, swam again and headed for the train home.  However, by the time we’d had a lovely meal at Bistrot Palou we were friends again, which was good cos I miss him when we’re not speaking……

After a well-deserved lie-in and an overnight storm, the next morning was spent putting the Heritage Stove back together, after swabbing out the water and letting it dry following the storm at Avignon rendering it useless with rain getting in the air inlet duct.  Some admin followed, then a walk round the town with a top-up shop at the butchers and small supermarket before settling down to watch The Lobster – a film we felt rather lost itself as it went on and no one (disappointingly) turned into a lobster.

We left fairly sharp the next morning and around an hour into our travels plucked a juvenile bee eater out of the canal, very wet and we weren’t convinced it would survive.  But survive it did and four and a half hours later after we’d moored at Maguelone, he attempted to fly off but landed in the canal again.  A second rescue was mounted and this time his recovery was much quicker, so an hour later, I put an agitated little Orville in the biscuit tin, crossed the bridge and took him to the edge of some vineyards where he was released and promptly landed in a nearby tree.  The day had been really windy and I suspect that was what had caught him out and landed him in the cut to start with, and as it was still windy we weren’t too surprised to see him still sitting there an hour later.  Thankfully the winds dropped and as we made our way to take the little train to the nearby beach for the day, there was no sign of him.

The Canal du Rhon a Sete is cut through the salt lakes which means you have vast expanses of salt water around you.

Flamingoes live in the etangs (salt water lakes)

Being near the Med means there are seabirds swooping around too.

Orville, freshly plucked from the cut.

A bit drier a few hours later.....

Almost ready to leave us :)

Our mooring at Maguelone

From our mooring you crossed a bridge across the canal to take the train to the beach 2km away.

The beach train.

After a day on the nudist section of the beach, or rather, the section where you can choose to wear something or not, as opposed to the section where you MUST wear something, we headed back and picked a message up on FB from one Beccy Suddes.  No one I knew so I asked Mike and it was an old colleague of his’ wife.  John and Beccy were camping with their family just 5km away, so took the opportunity to pop over for a couple of hours and have a look at the boat.  The two youngest, Philip and Zoey (hope I’ve got that name right!) asked some excellent questions – we were most impressed!  After they headed off, sent packing by a sudden onslaught of mosquitoes, we covered ourselves in insect repellent and walked across the carpark to the little food and wine festival that was taking place; a showcase of local foods, wine with some live music – when the musicians weren’t being eaten alive by mossies!!

Next morning a quick trip into the village by bike to post a letter and get some cash and then we headed for a last day at this part of the beach, to bare all, as our mooring was limited to three days.

It was a great little mooring and we were sorry to leave, but leave we did and shuffled onwards along the Canal du Rhon a Sete another few kilometres to the small hameau (hamlet) of Les Aresquieres, where rumour had it there was a shiny new 80m pontoon.  And there was!!  And because it wasn’t in the books yet it was empty!  We took our position and after a 5 minute walk got naked again on the beach trying desperately to toast the white bits!  The sea was amazing – cooler than expected but incredibly clear and not a bit of plastic or rubbish in site.  It was truly spotless – well done the French!  We decided to eat out and headed off on a 20 minute walk to the nearest restaurant.  After 35 minutes and the blue dot going bananas on google maps, we arrived at a campsite, which had a restaurant but was closed!  We tried to hitch back for a few minutes but no one stopped so we walked back.  Thankfully it was a nice evening and we had wine and snacks to keep us going.

The new quay by night, looking towards the lights of Sete.

From the bridge crossing the canal at Les Aresquieres - can you see us? We're on the left, just before the bend at the top of the canal.  Fishermen's houses line the canal.

The Med, just a short walk from the mooring :)

Toasting our white bits!!

Looking back the other way at night.

The following day we cycled an easy 3km to the beach at Frontignan for lunch, where there was a little Blackpool-esque strip with beach shops and restaurants.  I plumped for moules frites and very delicious it was as well and Mike polished off a burger before we eventually topped up at the little supermarket, headed back to the boat and then enjoyed the rest of the day on the beach again.  We were absolutely loving our time on this canal; the superb scenery, the wonderful beaches and the guaranteed blue skies and sunshine each day – bliss!

On Sunday 19^th, we reversed our day and headed to the beach for a last morning before heading into Frontignan itself in the afternoon.  Now, there is a lift-bridge in Frontignan that only lifts twice a day – or so we thought, so we’d timed our arrival to make the 4pm lifting.  However, the previous evening, a stream of boats had passed us just after 8pm and I had suggested that it looked like the bridge was opening in the evening.

4pm came and one of the hire boats was right off his marks and up at the bridge, but nothing happened.  On further investigation we discovered that it opens three times a day in August; 8.30am, 1.30pm and 7pm…….  We whiled away the time at a local wine cave whilst boats arrived at both sides of the bridge for the 7pm lifting.  We were worried (as usual) about getting a mooring as we were really low on water and there was water in the port but if there was no space…?  We didn’t need to worry, as a walk around the port enlightened us to the presence of Anne and Steve and Hector the Bassett Hound on Sa Marche – who we’d met last year towards the end of the season.  Steve kindly invited us to pull alongside to get water if all the spaces were taken, so we knew we’d be okay.

  

So, 7pm arrived and we thought that there might be a light system or something to control the boats going through from each side, but no, it was a huge free-for-all, including the large commercial who, for once, was not given priority and had to fight his way through with the other 20 or so of us.  It was really hilarious but we got through and got a space on the quay, so we were finally able to settle down for night.

Jousting boats is apparently a popular sport in this area and these two were moored opposite us as we waited for the bridge.

Chaos ensues as everyone makes a dash for it as soon as the bridge is up!

And then safely moored up on the other side.

For the last few days, weeks even, Mike had again been watching the wind and weather like a hawk, as the time to cross the Etang du Thau was drawing close.  Today, 20^th Aug, was the day and with a  blazing sun in the sky, we happily left Frontignan and continued our journey West.  We had phoned the harbour master at the port of Marseillan town to make sure conditions were good, but also to book a mooring there.  The ports around the Etang (big salt-water lake) are notoriously expensive and many people are just keen to get across the etang safely and back onto the canal.  However, conditions were good for the next few days and having spoken with Nicki and Gorette who stayed on the Etang at Meze and loved the experience, we had decided to stay a night or two.

Quaintrelle was a bit reticent as she thought we were heading towards the Wash again, but it couldn’t have been more different!

There are a lot of boats as you get nearer the Etang.

Dry storage for the light weights :)

"Please don't make me go out to sea!!!!!!!"

Perfect conditions.

Oyster fishing is the main thing on the Etang and there are miles and miles of nets.

Much more relaxed than on the Wash.

The day was glorious and the conditions near perfect with only the wash from the odd speed-boat rocking us a bit more than usual.  A few short hours later we pulled into the port at Marseillan and almost immediately fell in love with the place – it was like a little Greek port on the Med, full of charm and smiling people.  The capitaine came out and waved us to a space and once moored up we headed over to see what the cost would be.  The husband and wife team were just delightful and immediately said, “You’re about 15 metres aren’t you?” and put us in a lower bracket than we should have been, however, it was still 56 euros a night.  We were so taken with the place though that we decided it was worth it and booked two nights.  Again, and surprisingly, they didn’t take cards, so we’d need to come back with cash.  They weren’t in a rush for it and said either later today or tomorrow was fine – so laid back!

Coming into port at Marseillan.

Pay for two nights - get one free? Don't mind if we do....... :)

We had a wander back through the port and just off to the left stumbled across Noilly Prat – the place where they make the famous vermouth.  We went in to book a tour and ended up in their new bar area having a cocktail – this place just got better and better!!!

Another fave!!

I can't remember the name but it had basil in it and was delicious!

On the way to dinner we went to pay our fees and were totally gobsmacked and delighted when Madame Capitaine pointed out on our receipt that she had marked it that we had paid for two nights but were offered a third night free!!   She said it in French so I assumed I’d misunderstood and got her to repeat it in English and it was right enough!  We didn’t need a second invitation!  She further explained that sometimes they do this for private boats as they know the fees are expensive.

Dinner at the Chateau du Port was the icing on the cake of an amazing day!  We were squeezed in as they were short-staffed, not that you’d have noticed, there was no delay in the service at all and Mike had one of the best steaks ever and I tucked into a fantastic platter of beautifully cooked seafood.  We enjoyed it so much that we made a booking as we left to come back for our last night!

The Chateau du Port restaurant - mmmmmmhhhhmmmmm

The next day we had a tour of Noilly Prat at 3pm – it’s at that time everyday in English, no booking required, so we decided to hang around the town and explore the very large market in the morning.  We didn’t buy anything at the market but I spotted a rather lovely plump, soft stuffed sheep in a little interiors shop and was so taken with its cock-eyes that I had to go back for it……

In these barrells is made the juice that is added to the wine to make it vermouth.

The wine is kept outside and cooled by sprinklers allowing the wine to take on the taste of the sun and salt air...... apparently.......

This is what happens if you drink too much Noilly Prat.  You become one :D

Energised by our vermouth tasting and cocktail, once back at the boat, Mike researched a wine cave that his friend Jim, of Sandringham St Beer Shop fame, had visited earlier this year and highly recommended.  It was a cycle away, so off we went, only got a bit lost and arrived with 25 minutes to spare before they closed.  It was the local cooperative so we were able to taste a variety of wines made by local growers, and of course the local Picpul de Pinet.  This is quite dry and we like a fruity wine so we preferred one of the chardonnays but bought half a dozen mixed bottles of the two.

The bikes were in action again the next day as we packed up and headed for a 5km cycle to the beach.  It turned out to be just over 6kms and the sandy beach was packed with families all enjoying their summer holiday – how we yearned for our peaceful nudist beaches back up the coast.  However, it was the beach, the sand was hot, the sea was cool and it was lovely.  Keeping an eye on some thundery clouds over head we spent a pleasant few hours before heading back in time for our second dinner at Chateau du Port.  This time we had the Chateaubriand for the two of us and it was absolutely amazing.  The restaurant is run by a Belgian couple and whilst they use local produce for everything else, admitted they bring their beef in from Belgium as they don’t think the French beef is as good.  We love both!!!  We couldn’t believe how quickly our three nights had passed here and didn’t want to leave.  It is one of our favourite moorings ever and we can’t wait to come back and visit again, although it probably won’t be in Quaintrelle!

 

More jousting boats at Marseillan

But another excitement awaited us in the morning as we would be going on to the world famous Canal du Midi!!