Showing posts with label Germigny l'Eveque. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Germigny l'Eveque. Show all posts

Tuesday, 8 August 2017

Germigny-l’Eveque – Dormant (Or, ‘Is that the Champagne Region I See Ahead??’)



Vines and Grain galore at Dormant

Our original plan back in April, for this section of our travels, was to leave Paris, head back up the Yonne and then turn down the Loing, Canal du Briare and Lateral de la Loire, then back along the Centre, out onto the Saone and retrace our steps up to St Jean de Losne but rather then turn onto the Bourgogne, keep going and take the Champagne Bourgogne canal onto the Marne, and back to Paris before heading back down the Loing or Nivernais to our winter mooring off the Centre at Roanne.  However, we realised that this was incredibly ambitious for the time left of the season and didn’t leave any wiggle room should we want to stop off anywhere, or take some time off the boat for a road trip or trip back to the UK.  So we came out of Paris and straight onto the Marne to go the other way than initially planned and keep the Loing, Briare and Lateral de la Loire for next year.  It’s been the right decision as we have been able to pootle along, spend a couple of nights at nice places and are just chilling out and taking our time – which is what it’s all about after all.  And there is so much to see and do!!!  I had no idea the the Marne was one of the main battle sites of WWI and there are many memorials and cemeteries to visit, and of course, we’ve reached the champagne region so we’re doing tastings as we go – well, would be rude not to!! 

Anyway, enough of my blethers, here’s a glimpse of what we’ve been up to!

Friday 29th was another short hop to our next mooring at Mary sur Marne, where we had tried to eat at Le Quai de Brunes restaurant when moored on the Ourcq.  We knew there was just the one 15 metre pontoon so we set off early hoping to get there before anyone else and hopefully secure a table for lunch at the restaurant.  The gods were with us and we smugly tied up, booked a table and then set about washing our rather dirty girl before having a lovely lunch with a couple of small glasses of rose wine to wash it down.  The restaurant is very popular with locals and we very quickly realised that they didn’t need and weren’t that bothered with tourists as we were left for ages before they brought menus and again before they took our orders.  Every other table was given tap water, and offered an aperitif – not us, but the food was really good when it came, so we let them off with their poor service to us.

The next morning was sunny and we set off for St Jean les Deux Jumeaux, seeing very few other boats on the move despite it being the weekend.  At lock 10 we were given a remote control and instruction sheet for the next 7 seven locks, which are automatic, but unmanned, so you operate them yourselves remotely from the boat – exciting!  The mooring at St Jean was empty and was a pontoon behind a little island, so really quiet and very cute.  We liked it so much we stayed two nights there, enjoying sitting in the sun reading our books and only saw two or three boats on the move.  There wasn’t much to the town; a baker which provided pudding for Saturday night and an large empty car park which we noted as a good surface to get the Ninebot out…….
There are still one or two working barges on the Marne

My first realisation of the Marne's importance during both World Wars; there was a plaque on this bridge that said it was destroyed on 12 June 1940 and recontructed 13 November 1940. It's the main line into Paris.
Lovely quiet mooring at St Jean Les Deux Jumeaux

Monday took us another 10kms and 0 locks to La Ferte sous Jouarre where again the pontoon moorings were behind a little island, sheltering you from the traffic.  It was a longer pontoon with a few boats moored, including Luv from Northern Ireland, with Paul and Elaine on board.  The moorings were free as was the water and electricity so we plugged in and got the washing machine going before heading to the LeaderPrice supermarket, which was a bit of a disappointment.  The town itself was very nice though and we were next to another empty car park for more Ninebotting.  We were getting so close to going solo on it……
 
Pretty Mayor's Office in the square at La Ferte sous Jouarre

Deep concentration......

Bit of a wobble.......
And she's off!!
The overnight rain hung around on Tuesday morning but the afternoon was hot and humid and got hotter as the day went on.  We took a walk to the WWI memorial which was very impressive, not least because it was to commemorate 3888 UK soldiers whose graves are unknown.  They landed in August 1914 and between then and October 2014 fought at Mons, Le Cateaut and on the Marne and the Aisne.  It was really odd to see local regiments and their men from Scotland and York listed on this huge monument in this little French town – quite moving.
 
Each of the four outer pillars are carved with the crests for England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales.

When we got back we had another go on the Ninebot and I managed this:


 
On Wednesday we started to spot vines as we headed into Champagne territory.  Again, there were few boats around and the Marne simply seems to ooze the chill factor, inviting you to take your time on the tranquil waters and enjoy the views.


We finally had the chance to use our remote control on the locks and all thankfully went smoothly.  In fact, it was much easier and much less stress as you can take your time roping up, not having to rush as the lock keepers champ at the bit to get you in and up and out as quickly as possible.  It was a longer day for us covering 24kms and 3 locks and we reached Charly mid-afternoon.  We walked into town and managed to sniff our way straight to the first champagne house to see what was on offer.   

The owner, Denis Roberts, was in the middle of packing for a trip to Belgium the next day, to have a stand at a conference/food and drink festival there, but shifted his boxes out of the way and introduced us to three of his champagnes.  His family have been making champagne since 1755, so they know their stuff and he is now passing on his knowledge to his sons and daughters with their own brand of the family champagne.  We bought a couple of bottles and headed back to the boat via the big, new Super U to top up on groceries and where we noticed their diesel was only 1 euro 16.  So a trip back with the jerry cans and the boat was fuelled up too.  As we were unpacking the shopping, another boat came up the lock behind us and Paul and Carol on Triona, whom we’d met in Paris, appeared.  Paul was busy studying his canal book and Carol was sorting their ropes so they almost went past, but Mike honked our horn and when they saw us they decided to reverse and moor up behind us for the night, having done over 70kms already that day!!
The sun was still out and we had a lovely big grass bank to sit on, so we took along a bottle of champagne and joined them for a drink, then we had some wine, then some more wine, then the brandy and port came out……  We ended up doing a pot luck dinner as we’d both made dinner but put everything on the table and had a taste of each others’.  It was good to catch up with them but we were pretty rough the next morning, and whilst they set off just after 9am, we battened down the hatches, watching the day get windier and windier and realising the gusts were 61km per hour, decided we probably shouldn’t move anyway…… 

Thankfully the wind had dropped the next morning, Friday 4 August, and we set off for the town of Chateau Thierry, arriving just before lunch mooring on the stone quayside which annoyingly had a sloping wall just under the water, so we had to sit out a bit and jump off the roof onto the side.  We popped into the Tourist Information, then did the French thing and had a nice lunch at Le Saint Jean restaurant.  We then had a look around the town, got some bits and pieces from the supermarket and then had drinks with Paul and Elaine on Luv, back at the mooring, as they’d leap-frogged us the previous day.

The next morning, we headed off out of the town on foot to visit the WWI memorial overlooking the town, a gift from the USA to commemorate the US soldiers who were key to the liberation of the town on 18 July 1918.  You can see the monument from miles around, surrounded by the woods that gave the soldiers cover coming into the town.  It was fenced off for renovation, but as it was the weekend, no one was around, so we squeezed through a wee gap in the fence to get a closer look (and better photo!).   


We then sat and chilled in the sunlit silence for an hour and then continued our walk back down to the edge of town and the house of Champagne Pannier.  There, there was a tour of the caves in English at 2pm, so we joined another family to learn the history of the caves and the champagne and do a tasting at the end.  The caves were fascinating, carved out back in the day to build the Chateau in the town and then used as shelter by the soldiers during the war and now full of champagne!




The tastings were generous and we duly bought a couple of bottles of pink for the cellar.  After a wee rest back at the boat, we headed out early evening to walk to the Chateau, now ruins, but impressive nonetheless and then picked up a kebab for tea on the way home
Lovely views of Chateau Thierry and the Marne valley from the old castle ruins.
One of the castle gates, not quite so ruined!
Mike getting a handful in the castle's herb garden....
We left Chateau Thierry in hot sunshine and had a lovely cruise for a couple of hours to our next mooring at Joulgone – we really are enjoying the Marne very much, the countryside is just beautiful and there are vines for miles.  There we practised the Ninebot again a couple of times, both now managing to ride it without holding on to each other for support, but still with quite a bit of wobbling.
Not a bad spot for a glass of wine and a good book

Monday 7th saw us on another short pootle to Dormant where our, leave early, arrive first policy worked again and the pontoon was empty when we got there at lunchtime.  The mooring was on a campsite, with open parkland next to the moorings and the caravans and tents further along hidden behind hedges.  It was well kept, had good facilities, so not surprising that there was a charge, but 9euros a night including water and electricity seemed reasonable.  We went for a walk around the town, much of which was shut as it was Monday, but the kebab shop was open, so Mike had a kebab for lunch and I ordered a salad.  The town has a chateau and impressive War memorial, so we headed towards that to enjoy our lunch in the chateau gardens in the shade.  The chateau itself is not open to the public, but houses the Tourist Information, so you got to see the entrance and one room!  But the gardens are free and just lovely and the war memorial and exhibitions within are all free too.  It was so impressive and their little ‘Marne Visages’ exhibition brought a tear to my eye reading the accounts of some of the French soldiers who died.
 
Nice approach to Dormant
Mooring with a view
The Chateau at Dormant within its beautiful gardens

The war memorial overlooks the town and was built after the First World War but now commemorates all the wars.
Beautiful interior which also houses a wee museum off to the side, where you can see items they've dug up and are still finding today.

View from the top of the tower.


We had spotted a L’Eclerc supermarket from the chateau gardens so topped up on supplies on the way back to the boat and as we crossed the bridge back to our mooring saw a dutch barge approaching.  They slowed up as if to moor, but by now Paul and Elaine had arrived and there was no room on the pontoon.  There was another barge moored on a stone quay next to the pontoon, but someone else was already alongside them as well, so I shouted over that they were welcome to come alongside us.  And so we met Trevor and Alison and Levi and Sacha the staffies on board Denieel (I think, I can’t remember exactly the name of their boat).  In this massive country, with hundreds and hundreds of miles of rivers and canals, we manage to bump into someone who moored their boat at Weedon!!!  What was funnier was that it was a white cruiser and whenever we were at Weedon I would comment that “That poor cruiser’s still sitting there – do you think anyone ever takes it out??”  Apart from the one time I realised with great excitement that it was facing the other way so must have been out……..  They have shares in Denieel so only travel on her six weeks a year and they still have the white cruiser, Swallow, in the UK, but have now moved her from Weedon so they can explore a different area.

They invited us over for a drink in the evening, after we’d done some more Ninebot practice on the tarmacked cycle route alongside our mooring and during which I did a good two or three minutes on my own and feel I’ve now mastered “the straight line”, which duly turned into several drinks and them sharing the curries that Mike had made that afternoon, which would have lasted us a week had they not shared them.  It was a lovely evening and nice to also share stories of Weedon and Daventry as they still live in the area.  We were amused to find that the pub in Badby that we’d stayed at whilst waiting on Quaintrelle being finished has just been taken over by Merlin, the bar man from tv's First Dates, who has renovated it and has trained all the staff in cocktail making!!!  Despite a late night and the promise of rain, we will be continuing our cruise though champagne country in the morning.
Family of swans visiting for a late evening snack.



Thursday, 27 July 2017

Paris to Germigny-l’Eveque - The Calm of the Marne and the Lost Socket Set :(



The Marne masquerading as The Thames
Our Guide Fluvial for the Marne (the French Nicholson’s) had advised that we should give three hours’ notice of arrival at the first lock taking us from the Seine to the Marne.  As it’s an automatic lock and operated by a full-time eclusier we didn’t see why we had to and decided just to arrive at the lock and radio ahead as we approached.  The guide said VHF 20 was the channel we should use, so as we drew closer I called the lock.  Silence.  We weren’t worried though as the little cruiser that had overtaken us at great speed leaving us rolling in its wake was waiting – they must have been waiting a while – shame…..  There was no response on the radio so with the lock light turning green having brought another boat down, we headed in with the little cruiser and roped on.  It was another awkward lock with climbing bollards rather than rising, so we would have to manually move the front rope up as we rose from one bollard to the next.  As we were in gear and pushing against the front rope to keep into the side, this meant going into neutral for a moment to loosen the rope to get it off one bollard and onto the next, then quickly getting back in gear before the wash of the lock pushes us too much.  Thankfully the lock was gentle and we rose up easily with no trauma.  At the second lock, which wasn’t much further on, we realised why we’d had radio silence.  The book said VHF 20, but the signs at the lock said VHF 22……..  between locks for ship to ship coms was VHF 69.  Having successfully navigated up two locks without using the radio, we decided that we probably didn’t really need to as they would see us coming, but it’s useful to know if you have to wait for another boat coming down and stuff.  There was still a bit of commercial traffic on this section of the Marne, but as we came out of the second lock, we found ourselves magically transported to Henley on Thames – or at least, that’s what it looked and felt like!
Leaving the second lock on the Marne and all is quiet....

Sharing the river
Rowers and paddle boarders galore!
We continued on through another couple of locks and a tunnel, without using the radio except to listen, and moored up for the evening at Neuilly sur Marne where, with it being Sunday, the French were out in full force along the riverside and there seemed to be a great hullaballoo going on through the trees.  After mooring up, we went for a quick explore and found that Neuilly Plage was on, on the other side of the island we were moored on, and it was heaving.  Like in Paris, a ‘beach’ had been set up with sand, deckchairs, petanque, ice cream, inflatable swimming pool and the French were loving it.  We headed off for a quieter stroll through the park on the island.  There were a couple of groups of men remaining when we returned and they stayed late into the night drinking and talking, and whilst I (the light sleeper) nodded off easily, Mike ‘sleeps like a log through anything’ Queenan was kept awake by their chat. 
Nice little mooring at Neuilly sur Marne
The next day we pushed off late morning with our target being Lagny sur Marne, where we would spend a couple of nights as we had some time to kill.  We arrived at lunchtime and squeezed into a space on the pontoon and after some lunch and trying to stay cool on the boat, headed out into the late afternoon sun, which was still hot, and had a look around the town and did some shopping at the local Monoprix.  I was really keen to go for a run but it was really, really hot and muggy, so we lazed around some more, had some dinner and then got the Ninebot out to play for a while.  As we packed it away, just after 9pm, I decided it was cool enough to go for a 20 minute trot, so headed off up the riverbank.
 
Nice mooring at Lagny sur Marne
Always happy to see a Super Furry!
The next day we had a lie in, late breakfast and then caught up on chores.  There’s always something to be done on the boat and the shower pump had been playing up a bit so I decided to give it a thorough clean out – it was disgusting!  Mike was keen to touch up some of the paintwork, but it was too hot so he decided he's have to leave it til later in the day.  We went for a walk over the other side of the river to Thorigny sur Marne to see if the Fanprix supermarket there would have some of our missing items but we were out of luck.  It appears we’re in a section of France where they don’t drink Syrop de Pamplemousse Rose……  In the evening we went for a stroll along the river to look at some of the posh houses which prompted a discussion on what we are looking for in a house in France.  We have started the search in earnest as it’s been mooted that anyone who lives in France before Brexit in March 2019, will likely have certain rights reserved for health care and pension for example, so I have been scouring the Gironde for a suitable property and we have some lined up to view hopefully later this month.

Wednesday was just a short hop to the town of Meaux, where we have been before via the Canal de l’Ourcq and it was a pleasant cruise with a couple of locks and a tunnel.  The commercial traffic was few and far between now but we did pass one barge getting filled with grain.

Another well-lit, wide, straight French tunnel
A long straight cutting to Meaux
Grain barge getting filled up
This motorway bridge looked really familiar - we had passed under it on the Ourcq, as it spans the whole valley.
 We had contacted the Port de Plaisance at Meaux a while back to book a space for a week as we were heading back to the UK for the Deer Shed Festival, but it’s a strange arrangement there.  The port is managed by the Tourist Office and whilst they were happy to say yes that’s fine to come for the week, they were unable to actually reserve a space for us, so we were relieved to pull in and see there was plenty of space.  Our relief was shortlived however as we tried to hook up and found the electricity points weren’t working on our pontoon.  Another pontoon had the power and water point all wrapped up and not working so boats from there had hooked onto the one working power point meaning there was no space for our plug, but our two cables joined together wouldn’t have reached anyway……  We headed up to the tourist office to ask them about it and the very nice but slightly ditsy girls didn’t remember us, were very sorry that the power wasn’t working but it had been reported to ‘Services’ a few days back but they had no idea when it would be fixed.  We really needed to hook up while we were away in case the weather was bad and our solar didn’t have enough juice for the batteries, so we were relieved (again!) when one of the girls advised that one of the boats on pontoon 4 (which had working power and water) was leaving in the morning and we could take their spot.  We asked when we should pay and they said someone would come round and collect the fees, or we could come to the office and pay at the end of our stay – they didn’t seem that bothered about it to be honest, but the next day we did have a little slip on the boat saying how much we should pay, 4 euros 50, but only if you use electric or water, which we didn’t the first day, so it was free.  That sorted we picked up a few bits and pieces at the supermarket, then headed to the station to see if we could catch a taxi to the cheese museum, that the lovely lock keeper at Varreddes had told us about.  There were no taxis so we took the opportunity to check the bus to Charles de Gaulle airport for the next day and headed back to the boat.  There were buses to the cheese museum but it was too late by now, so it would have to wait. 

The next day, Thursday 20th, we had a lovely lunch at L’Authentique restaurant for a second time then caught the bus to Charles de Gaulle airport, which was a revelation in that it’s an hourly service, takes 40 minutes direct and cost 2 euros!!  Bargain.  So, any boaters collecting friends and family from Charles de Gaulle airport – Meaux is a great place to do it from!

A smooth flight and car collect from Edinburgh Airport and we were eating curry at my mum’s by 8pm, also meeting her guest, Tania, from Belarus.  Tania is chaperon to six Belarusan children who were brought to Dalgety Bay for a month via the charity Chernobyl Children Lifeline.  My mum and dad got involved in this charity after dad retired in 1996, with dad taking the role of chairman for a few years for the local branch of the charity.  The charity was started after the Chernobyl disaster and would bring children to the UK to stay with families here for a month and they would get eye tests, dental checks, new shoes and clothes.  A month in our clean air eating uncontaminated food could extend their lifespan by four or five years.  The children were tiny little scraps, it was quite heartbreaking, but the work done by the charity was amazing and you could see the improvement in the kids in the few short weeks.  Mum’s role has always been ‘The Shop’, for which she collects and sorts new and good quality second hand clothes, jewellery, shoes and the children’s first stop when they arrive is to go ‘shopping’ down at the church hall.  Mum also hosts the leader for two weeks of the month, so hence Tania was with her.  Sadly they are the last chapter of the charity in Fife and I believe the Edinburgh one is now closed as well, and it looks like the Fife chapter will not last much longer.  The problem is getting families to host the children for two weeks or a month.  It’s a huge commitment and quite hard work and sadly not many people are volunteering.  Mum’s lot only had 6 children this year as that was all the families they could get to take children – they used to get 12-14.

It was a flying visit to my mum’s and on Friday we packed the camping gear and set of for the Deer Shed Festival in Yorkshire.
Relaxing with a wine before the evening's entertainment
A typically British-Summertime-Sky
Yes!  The reason we're here - The Fannies!!  Saw them at their first festival of this tour and now at the last.
Mike moshed-down to Arab Strap but they were too loud for me.....
...so I went off an had some chocolate orange brownie and ice cream instead :)

What had been grass turned to mud - with friends Stewart and Debbie
Sunday Headliners: The Divine Comedy, and they were divine.
I don’t think we’re cut out for camping.  The ten minute wait in a queue to go for a wee in the morning after I got up was unbearable, never mind the mud, cold and rain………  The music was fab though, really excellent line-up.

A night of drunkenness with Dave and Melissa at Pocklington where we were joined by Mike’s first love Fran, and his long-suffering wife Sally, followed and then on Monday it was back in the car and up to Fife, via Whitby where we called in on Mike’s Uncle Ron.  It was miserable, cold and wet when we set off but as we headed further north and into Scotland, the skies were blue and the temperature had soared from 12 to 20 degrees!!  Bizarre!

On Tuesday whilst I packed the dry camping stuff away, Mike went for his eye test and then it was back to the airport and homeward bound.

Unusually, we both bleeped at security and had to be x-rayed, but even more unusually Mike’s bag was pulled aside.  As frequent travellers we know the rules and are always well prepared, so wondered what it was. “You’ve got two roll-on deodorants in there,” the chap said.  “No I haven’t.  I’ve never used a roll-on in my life,” replied Mike.  The roll-on deodorants proved to be the two tubs of Smoked Paprika we were bringing back as we can’t find it in France.  So, you have to ask, how good is their equipment that shows up two tubs of powder as roll-on deodorants????  As the chap was looking for the offending items he pulled out a little plastic box and asked what it was, “It’s a mini-socket set,” one that we’d bought in the UK as it was £60 cheaper to do so than buy it France.  “Ah.  You can’t take that through, it’s on the banned list.”  Mike disagreed and explained that we’d taken small tools through before, the last time when we went through Leeds, we had a spanner in the bag!  They took Mike to a computer and showed him the list which mentioned, tools, which may be considered a risk……..  Mike pointed out he’d be more able to knock someone out with his laptop than the tiny sockets, but they weren’t having it.  He’d need to check his bag in if he wanted to take it.  This was at 12.40pm and our flight was 1.25pm, but the chap called the desk, they said they’d take the bag and they both headed off.

At 1.25pm a pale face appeared through the bus door just before it closed and pulled off to the waiting plane – Mike had made it, just, but the socket set hadn’t.  By the time he’d got back to check-in, navigated the broken self-service machines, found someone to speak to, they told him baggage check was shut.  He was fast-tracked back through security, decided to dump the three inch handle from the socket set, but was pulled aside and told he couldn’t take the little metal, ¼ inch (and smaller!) circular sockets on the plane.  So he dumped them out on their desk, kept the plastic case and then had to run to the gate which, typically, was the furthest away it could be – and all because of one person’s interpretation of what tools are a risk….  We weren’t happy.

Back at Meaux, it was warm and dry, although it had been raining which meant the plants were happy, and although it was Tuesday, we decided we needed a glass of wine.

The next morning we were up sharp and got the bus to the cheese museum.
 
Cheeeeeeeeese Gromit!!!  Brie de Meaux AOC

After tasting, you gotta buy!

We then went to pay our mooring fees, decided to stay another night and enjoyed a new drama on the BBC iPlayer after dinner.

This morning we set off under heavy skies on a lockless cruise along the tranquil river, and after only getting half on a pontoon at Poincy have settled on an unusual wall mooring a bit further on under a ruined bridge at the little town of Germingny-l’Eveque.  It’s nice to be back on board and underway again.
Lovely little treehouse - think we might need something bigger though.....
Moored under the ruined bridge at Germigny l'Eveque