Nogent sur Marne to Cumieres (Or, Champagne – Here We Come!!!)

Where are you all coming from???!!!

Despite being tired after our long emotional day on Monday 7^th, we were up sharp, filled with water and away just before 9am the following morning.  As we had to do a bit of catching up and had done the River Marne last year, we decided to do a few long days, and as the sun was out, it was a pleasure to be boating.  However, our early start and good humour ground to halt as we approached the first lock of the day and pulled in to let the commercial barge that had come up behind us, pass and go up the lock first.  In France commercial barges have priority and on some busy waterways you can wait for over an hour if one is coming, as they’ll make you wait so it can go through the lock first.  As he past us, the marinier on board gave a wave of acknowledgement and headed into the lock.  Then a tiny cruiser entered the lock from above and came down, and on them exiting and seeing the light go green, we pushed off and moved towards the lock, only for the light to go red, at which point I turned around and saw another commercial behind us in the distance.  The lock keeper (who had not responded to my VHF call) came out of his hut and told us we’d have to wait.  It’s the rules, but it was annoying as we could have been up the lock and away before he even arrived.  So we turned around and moved back to let the Commercial through and couldn’t believe it when as the lock was emptying for us to go up, I looked over my shoulder and saw a huge gravel barge barging up the river.  Mike was all for going, so I hung off the quayside, but the barge just kept coming and was clearly taking the lock.

Finally after he was gone, we were allowed up, only to catch him up as we’d gone onto a section of canal running alongside the river, a deviation, and his draft was such he could only crawl along.  Give him his due, at a wider section Mrs Mariniere came out and waved us past, which we did gratefully as we didn’t really fancy doing the next 10km at tick-over……

 

There are lots of rowing clubs along the Marne, it really reminds us of the Thames in places.

We arrived at the next lock to see the second commercial in front going in and up and radio-ed the lock-keeper – no response…….  So we hung back and waited but when the commercial left the lock above us, the gates remained open and the lock didn’t start preparing for us to go up next.  We pulled over onto the side and Mike went up for a look to see if there was a boat waiting to come down, but there wasn’t, and the lock-keeper had vanished as well.  Mike went into his hut and could see us clearly on his screen via the cameras looking down the canal, so he must’ve seen us waiting as he put the commercial up.  Mike shouted and hung around, but it was deserted.  So we waited.  We waited 40 minutes, at which point the big gravel barge appeared around the corner behind us and miraculously the lockie appeared and the lock began to prepare.  But bless the gravel barge, he hung way back and made his intention clear that we should go up first, so we got a green light and were finally underway again.  It was annoying because the lock-keeper clearly had decided that he would put the gravel barge up before us and we’d have to wait, despite the fact he had more than enough time to put us through first and then have the lock ready for the gravel barge 40 minutes later, so technically, he held up the gravel barge unnecessarily.

 

Exiting the tunnel de Chalifert you pass under a bridge carrying the TGV line - there WAS a train passing over!

And at the lock just past the tunnel, surprise, surprise, we had to wait for a commercial coming down!

The last time we’d been on this stretch of water we had seen a couple of commercial barges but not the amount we were seeing today and we wondered if they were all catching up from the stoppage we’d had on the Seine. 

One in front and one coming towards us....... "Gasp!!!" :D

Anyway, the two hold-ups made our long day even longer and it was nearly 6pm when we pulled in to the port at Meaux, to discover that the port had suffered flood damage over the winter and they were only now getting around to repairing it.  So whilst we managed to get onto a pontoon, there was no way to get off the pontoon onto land – they’d removed the wooden quay the pontoons attach to.  We needed a couple of things from the supermarket – a well-deserved ice-cream being one – so we got our plank off the roof and used that – although it was a bit tricky getting back onto the pontoon again as there was nothing to hold on to – yikes!!!

The lack of access also meant we didn’t really socialise with the first two pleasure boats we’d seen for days, Kokoro (with Steve and Pay-Chen onboard, who we’d met when we wintered in Auxerre), and Archangel, a pretty barge with the most beautiful flower boxes I’ve seen.  We ended up just shouting across to them!  As they had arrived before the quay was lifted, the workers had left their pontoon connected, but I’m not sure for how long………

We allowed ourselves a little bit of a lie-in the next morning and left just before 10am, looking forward to a cruise on the quiet river in the sunshine.  We had intended to leave earlier and reach Mery-sur-Marne by lunchtime, to take advantage of the fantastic restaurant, Quai de Brunes, but having checked, realised it was closed on a Wednesday, so we’d just go past and not need the two-hour pause in our cruising day.  Last year we saw no commercial traffic on the river after Meaux, but on our way to La Ferte sous Jouarre (Still sounds like they named the place Fart!) we saw four commercial barges on the move and more passed us after we moored.  Having spent a few nights in La Ferte last year, we did a top-up at the Carrefour supermarket, filled with water and were off sharp the following morning.

Cute treehouse as we leave Meaux

This is the site of an inclined plain that used to take boats from the Marne onto the Canal de L'Ourqe that we cruised last year.

Last year after Meaux, we saw no commercials at all on the Marne.  This time we're seeing at least 3-4 every day.

It was a stressful departure as we were at the lowest we’d ever been on diesel with the tank showing just below a quarter full.  Now, if the gauge is correct, this wouldn’t have been a problem, but we’re just not sure quite how accurate the gauge is, as our water one still shows two bars full when the tank is dry!  Slightly concerned, we had decanted some red diesel from our front tank (which the gauge for has jacked in completely and is showing no reading, but we’re not too worried as we filled it before leaving Roanne and we’re only using it for cooking in the evening).  As usual, our little pump, operated by the drill, and which is fantastic when it works, was doing its usual intermittent thing but we eventually managed to sook out about 5 litres.  We refrained from putting it in the propulsion tank though, as it’s illegal to use red diesel for propulsion in France and although we’ve never been stopped and checked, we knew that knowing our luck, today would be the day.

The Marne had a bit of a flow on it, and I was a nervous wreck, not made to feel any better as Mike ran through the drill of what we’d do if the engine cut out (anchor launched, top up with the red diesel, head for the side – having probably not been able to get the anchor back up and having to cut it and leave it on the bottom……).  So as we got held up at the first lock by a commercial ahead of us, I was almost having a meltdown at the thought of all the diesel we were wasting sitting there.  Once up the lock, we pulled into the side and had another go at decanting some red out of the front tank, much to the amusement of the next commercial of the day heading down the lock, but gave up with a dribble when the motor began to smoke…….  I insisted that we put in the red diesel we had which would give us another 6 or so kilometres out of the 20 we had left to do and to where we could get diesel.

For some reason, doing this pacified my racing pulse somewhat, and the rest of the journey was slightly calmer as the flow eased on the river as moved away from the lock and weir.  However, it was still with some relief that four hours later, we pulled into the lock at Charly and moored on the quai above for the night.  For us, Charly signals the start of the champagne region, the vines start to come into view and it was where we did our first tasting and buying last year.  But for the moment, all we wanted was diesel, so it was off on the first of four trips to the Super U 200metres away to fill the tank and then refill the two jerry cans as spare – we didn’t want another day like today!!!

View from a porthole at Charly - vines, lovely vines!

We had intended to do a big shop but the supermarket itself was closed as it was a public holiday (again!) in France.  They have a few in the month of May; 1^st May is labour day and everything including a lot of the locks are closed, 8^th May is victory in Europe day, and extra special this year as it is the centenary, 10^th May is Ascension, 21^st May is Pentecost.  There’s then a break until 14^th July followed by Assumption a month later on 15^th August.  1 November (All Saints Day) is next then 11^th November, Armistice and lastly Christmas Day and New Years day.  Not that you needed to know this but it’s got it clear in my head now!

Mike had a teleconference for work as I did the last petrol run and having checked if the restaurant next to the mooring was open and finding it wasn’t (holiday), we cooked the tea and settled in for the night.

After a leisurely browse around the Super U in the morning, we had a lovely cruise the next day taking us all the way to Chateau Thierry, winding our way through the beautiful countryside in glorious sunshine – shorts weather all round!  On arrival we couldn’t get on to the high wall quay, so ended up on the pontoon mooring for 5euros 44 for the night.  It was a glorious day, so we packed a picnic and headed off to the American war memorial on the hills above the town.  When we visited last year it was being restored and was fenced off, but even then it was still hugely impressive and we were keen to see it in its full glory, but it’s also just a great place to visit.  It’s so peaceful and offers great views and just has a special feel to it.  We weren’t disappointed.  This time, not only was all the fencing gone allowing us to see it properly, the visitor centre was open which has a small exhibition explaining the events of WWI in this area and the involvements of the American troops.  It’s very well done and the story told well so you come away understanding what had happened and what might have happened had the allies not had the support of the US troops at that point.  There are some fantastically sad photographs of the devastation of the small towns and villages in the area, and one which sticks to mind of red cross nurses assisting troops at a train station, and written on one of the train doors is, “It’s a long way to Chateau Thierry.”

WWI memorial to the US Troops

Mike's delicious Greek chicken pie he made for tea

After a full English breakfast the following morning it wasn’t such a long way to Dormans; 24km and 4 locks to be precise.  We moored at the same spot at the campsite as last year and settled down to get on with some work on the boat.  Around teatime there was an amazing thunder storm with heavy rain that must have lasted the best part of an hour.  Fortunately the rain had stopped by the time we were heading out for a most marvellous dinner at Sylvian Suty.

The amazing Chariot de Fromage!

After more rain overnight everything felt a bit damp and cold, so first thing on Sunday morning we lit the fire!  Unbelievable that we had had shorts on for the previous ten days or so.  It was another quiet day on the Marne seeing no other boats on the move, not even the usual 3 or 4 commercial barges we’ve been seeing – they must take the weekend off!  We pootled along taking turns to warm up in the boat and after 11km and 2 locks reached our evening’s accommodation, the pontoon at Port-a-Binson.  After getting the French couple on their little cruiser sitting in the middle of the pontoon to shuffle up, we moored up and took shelter as the heavens opened again.  As we sat a commercial barge and then a hotel boat passed by but all else was still.  With the rain abating an hour or so later, we got our jackets on and headed off up the hill to Chatillon-sur-Marne.  We had seen the town from the river last year, with the big statue of Pope Urbain II looking out over the valley, but hadn’t stopped to explore, so this was a new mooring and new town to visit for us.  It was quite a climb and with it being Sunday the town was closed when we got there, all apart from the tourist information office, which was open and had the most gorgeous cat welcoming any tourists!  The cat’s human confirmed our worst fears – all the champagne houses were closed, so there’d be no tasting, but he gave us a leaflet with the history of the statue and we went to take in the views.

 

Some very unusual and very noisy pets in the lock garden.

Pope Urbain II surveys the Marne Valley

Even with crap weather the views are spectacular

Back at the boat, the French had moved on (must have been something we said….) and we only just closed the door when the rain started again and stayed on for most of the evening.

It was still raining when we woke up, big, wet drops everywhere, but on a plus side, it was washing all the dust and crap off Quaintrelle!  We hadn’t bothered plugging into the power the previous night, but as our solar was now rendered useless by the weather and we weren’t going to move in such weather, I dashed out and hooked us up.  Mike meanwhile got the fire lit again……….

The rain eventually eased off and we filled with water and prepared to push off, unable to see the surrounding countryside as it was coated in mist – just as well we saw it last year then!

 

Last year we moored at the town of Reuil and went off along the towpath in search of the Teddy Garden.  It was nowhere to be found but we saw a fenced off area that looked like it had been something.  This year the teddies are back, if you look closely :)

A picture to show it's not all shorts n sunshine on board Quaintrelle ;)

We just did a short hop of 13km and 2 locks (2 and ½ hours) to Cumieres with no rain but surrounded by grey and at times very black looking clouds.  A forecast 5pm deluge came to nothing as we walked up the champagne house, Phillipe Martin and enjoyed our first tasting session of the year.  The champagne was delicious and the trainee receptionist spoke very good English explaining about the house’s history and the different kinds of champagne they make.  We had four generous samples and settled on buying a few bottles of their Rose and one of their Blanc de Blancs which is made with 100% chardonnay.

We were now back on track with our schedule to get to Nancy for the end of May, but unfortunately I’m still running slightly behind with the blog!!!

Paris to Germigny-l’Eveque - The Calm of the Marne and the Lost Socket Set :(

The Marne masquerading as The Thames

Our Guide Fluvial for the Marne (the French Nicholson’s) had advised that we should give three hours’ notice of arrival at the first lock taking us from the Seine to the Marne.  As it’s an automatic lock and operated by a full-time eclusier we didn’t see why we had to and decided just to arrive at the lock and radio ahead as we approached.  The guide said VHF 20 was the channel we should use, so as we drew closer I called the lock.  Silence.  We weren’t worried though as the little cruiser that had overtaken us at great speed leaving us rolling in its wake was waiting – they must have been waiting a while – shame…..  There was no response on the radio so with the lock light turning green having brought another boat down, we headed in with the little cruiser and roped on.  It was another awkward lock with climbing bollards rather than rising, so we would have to manually move the front rope up as we rose from one bollard to the next.  As we were in gear and pushing against the front rope to keep into the side, this meant going into neutral for a moment to loosen the rope to get it off one bollard and onto the next, then quickly getting back in gear before the wash of the lock pushes us too much.  Thankfully the lock was gentle and we rose up easily with no trauma.  At the second lock, which wasn’t much further on, we realised why we’d had radio silence.  The book said VHF 20, but the signs at the lock said VHF 22……..  between locks for ship to ship coms was VHF 69.  Having successfully navigated up two locks without using the radio, we decided that we probably didn’t really need to as they would see us coming, but it’s useful to know if you have to wait for another boat coming down and stuff.  There was still a bit of commercial traffic on this section of the Marne, but as we came out of the second lock, we found ourselves magically transported to Henley on Thames – or at least, that’s what it looked and felt like!

Leaving the second lock on the Marne and all is quiet....

Sharing the river

Rowers and paddle boarders galore!

We continued on through another couple of locks and a tunnel, without using the radio except to listen, and moored up for the evening at Neuilly sur Marne where, with it being Sunday, the French were out in full force along the riverside and there seemed to be a great hullaballoo going on through the trees.  After mooring up, we went for a quick explore and found that Neuilly Plage was on, on the other side of the island we were moored on, and it was heaving.  Like in Paris, a ‘beach’ had been set up with sand, deckchairs, petanque, ice cream, inflatable swimming pool and the French were loving it.  We headed off for a quieter stroll through the park on the island.  There were a couple of groups of men remaining when we returned and they stayed late into the night drinking and talking, and whilst I (the light sleeper) nodded off easily, Mike ‘sleeps like a log through anything’ Queenan was kept awake by their chat. 

Nice little mooring at Neuilly sur Marne

The next day we pushed off late morning with our target being Lagny sur Marne, where we would spend a couple of nights as we had some time to kill.  We arrived at lunchtime and squeezed into a space on the pontoon and after some lunch and trying to stay cool on the boat, headed out into the late afternoon sun, which was still hot, and had a look around the town and did some shopping at the local Monoprix.  I was really keen to go for a run but it was really, really hot and muggy, so we lazed around some more, had some dinner and then got the Ninebot out to play for a while.  As we packed it away, just after 9pm, I decided it was cool enough to go for a 20 minute trot, so headed off up the riverbank.

 

Nice mooring at Lagny sur Marne

Always happy to see a Super Furry!

The next day we had a lie in, late breakfast and then caught up on chores.  There’s always something to be done on the boat and the shower pump had been playing up a bit so I decided to give it a thorough clean out – it was disgusting!  Mike was keen to touch up some of the paintwork, but it was too hot so he decided he's have to leave it til later in the day.  We went for a walk over the other side of the river to Thorigny sur Marne to see if the Fanprix supermarket there would have some of our missing items but we were out of luck.  It appears we’re in a section of France where they don’t drink Syrop de Pamplemousse Rose……  In the evening we went for a stroll along the river to look at some of the posh houses which prompted a discussion on what we are looking for in a house in France.  We have started the search in earnest as it’s been mooted that anyone who lives in France before Brexit in March 2019, will likely have certain rights reserved for health care and pension for example, so I have been scouring the Gironde for a suitable property and we have some lined up to view hopefully later this month.

Wednesday was just a short hop to the town of Meaux, where we have been before via the Canal de l’Ourcq and it was a pleasant cruise with a couple of locks and a tunnel.  The commercial traffic was few and far between now but we did pass one barge getting filled with grain.

Another well-lit, wide, straight French tunnel

A long straight cutting to Meaux

Grain barge getting filled up

This motorway bridge looked really familiar - we had passed under it on the Ourcq, as it spans the whole valley.

 We had contacted the Port de Plaisance at Meaux a while back to book a space for a week as we were heading back to the UK for the Deer Shed Festival, but it’s a strange arrangement there.  The port is managed by the Tourist Office and whilst they were happy to say yes that’s fine to come for the week, they were unable to actually reserve a space for us, so we were relieved to pull in and see there was plenty of space.  Our relief was shortlived however as we tried to hook up and found the electricity points weren’t working on our pontoon.  Another pontoon had the power and water point all wrapped up and not working so boats from there had hooked onto the one working power point meaning there was no space for our plug, but our two cables joined together wouldn’t have reached anyway……  We headed up to the tourist office to ask them about it and the very nice but slightly ditsy girls didn’t remember us, were very sorry that the power wasn’t working but it had been reported to ‘Services’ a few days back but they had no idea when it would be fixed.  We really needed to hook up while we were away in case the weather was bad and our solar didn’t have enough juice for the batteries, so we were relieved (again!) when one of the girls advised that one of the boats on pontoon 4 (which had working power and water) was leaving in the morning and we could take their spot.  We asked when we should pay and they said someone would come round and collect the fees, or we could come to the office and pay at the end of our stay – they didn’t seem that bothered about it to be honest, but the next day we did have a little slip on the boat saying how much we should pay, 4 euros 50, but only if you use electric or water, which we didn’t the first day, so it was free.  That sorted we picked up a few bits and pieces at the supermarket, then headed to the station to see if we could catch a taxi to the cheese museum, that the lovely lock keeper at Varreddes had told us about.  There were no taxis so we took the opportunity to check the bus to Charles de Gaulle airport for the next day and headed back to the boat.  There were buses to the cheese museum but it was too late by now, so it would have to wait. 

The next day, Thursday 20^th, we had a lovely lunch at L’Authentique restaurant for a second time then caught the bus to Charles de Gaulle airport, which was a revelation in that it’s an hourly service, takes 40 minutes direct and cost 2 euros!!  Bargain.  So, any boaters collecting friends and family from Charles de Gaulle airport – Meaux is a great place to do it from!

A smooth flight and car collect from Edinburgh Airport and we were eating curry at my mum’s by 8pm, also meeting her guest, Tania, from Belarus.  Tania is chaperon to six Belarusan children who were brought to Dalgety Bay for a month via the charity Chernobyl Children Lifeline.  My mum and dad got involved in this charity after dad retired in 1996, with dad taking the role of chairman for a few years for the local branch of the charity.  The charity was started after the Chernobyl disaster and would bring children to the UK to stay with families here for a month and they would get eye tests, dental checks, new shoes and clothes.  A month in our clean air eating uncontaminated food could extend their lifespan by four or five years.  The children were tiny little scraps, it was quite heartbreaking, but the work done by the charity was amazing and you could see the improvement in the kids in the few short weeks.  Mum’s role has always been ‘The Shop’, for which she collects and sorts new and good quality second hand clothes, jewellery, shoes and the children’s first stop when they arrive is to go ‘shopping’ down at the church hall.  Mum also hosts the leader for two weeks of the month, so hence Tania was with her.  Sadly they are the last chapter of the charity in Fife and I believe the Edinburgh one is now closed as well, and it looks like the Fife chapter will not last much longer.  The problem is getting families to host the children for two weeks or a month.  It’s a huge commitment and quite hard work and sadly not many people are volunteering.  Mum’s lot only had 6 children this year as that was all the families they could get to take children – they used to get 12-14.

It was a flying visit to my mum’s and on Friday we packed the camping gear and set of for the Deer Shed Festival in Yorkshire.

Relaxing with a wine before the evening's entertainment

A typically British-Summertime-Sky

Yes!  The reason we're here - The Fannies!!  Saw them at their first festival of this tour and now at the last.

Mike moshed-down to Arab Strap but they were too loud for me.....

...so I went off an had some chocolate orange brownie and ice cream instead :)

What had been grass turned to mud - with friends Stewart and Debbie

Sunday Headliners: The Divine Comedy, and they were divine.

I don’t think we’re cut out for camping.  The ten minute wait in a queue to go for a wee in the morning after I got up was unbearable, never mind the mud, cold and rain………  The music was fab though, really excellent line-up.

A night of drunkenness with Dave and Melissa at Pocklington where we were joined by Mike’s first love Fran, and his long-suffering wife Sally, followed and then on Monday it was back in the car and up to Fife, via Whitby where we called in on Mike’s Uncle Ron.  It was miserable, cold and wet when we set off but as we headed further north and into Scotland, the skies were blue and the temperature had soared from 12 to 20 degrees!!  Bizarre!

On Tuesday whilst I packed the dry camping stuff away, Mike went for his eye test and then it was back to the airport and homeward bound.

Unusually, we both bleeped at security and had to be x-rayed, but even more unusually Mike’s bag was pulled aside.  As frequent travellers we know the rules and are always well prepared, so wondered what it was. “You’ve got two roll-on deodorants in there,” the chap said.  “No I haven’t.  I’ve never used a roll-on in my life,” replied Mike.  The roll-on deodorants proved to be the two tubs of Smoked Paprika we were bringing back as we can’t find it in France.  So, you have to ask, how good is their equipment that shows up two tubs of powder as roll-on deodorants????  As the chap was looking for the offending items he pulled out a little plastic box and asked what it was, “It’s a mini-socket set,” one that we’d bought in the UK as it was £60 cheaper to do so than buy it France.  “Ah.  You can’t take that through, it’s on the banned list.”  Mike disagreed and explained that we’d taken small tools through before, the last time when we went through Leeds, we had a spanner in the bag!  They took Mike to a computer and showed him the list which mentioned, tools, which may be considered a risk……..  Mike pointed out he’d be more able to knock someone out with his laptop than the tiny sockets, but they weren’t having it.  He’d need to check his bag in if he wanted to take it.  This was at 12.40pm and our flight was 1.25pm, but the chap called the desk, they said they’d take the bag and they both headed off.

At 1.25pm a pale face appeared through the bus door just before it closed and pulled off to the waiting plane – Mike had made it, just, but the socket set hadn’t.  By the time he’d got back to check-in, navigated the broken self-service machines, found someone to speak to, they told him baggage check was shut.  He was fast-tracked back through security, decided to dump the three inch handle from the socket set, but was pulled aside and told he couldn’t take the little metal, ¼ inch (and smaller!) circular sockets on the plane.  So he dumped them out on their desk, kept the plastic case and then had to run to the gate which, typically, was the furthest away it could be – and all because of one person’s interpretation of what tools are a risk….  We weren’t happy.

Back at Meaux, it was warm and dry, although it had been raining which meant the plants were happy, and although it was Tuesday, we decided we needed a glass of wine.

The next morning we were up sharp and got the bus to the cheese museum.

 

Cheeeeeeeeese Gromit!!!  Brie de Meaux AOC

After tasting, you gotta buy!

We then went to pay our mooring fees, decided to stay another night and enjoyed a new drama on the BBC iPlayer after dinner.

This morning we set off under heavy skies on a lockless cruise along the tranquil river, and after only getting half on a pontoon at Poincy have settled on an unusual wall mooring a bit further on under a ruined bridge at the little town of Germingny-l’Eveque.  It’s nice to be back on board and underway again.

Lovely little treehouse - think we might need something bigger though.....

Moored under the ruined bridge at Germigny l'Eveque